Thoughts From a Seamstress

How I measure.

2011-12-22T11:05:00.000-08:00

I sell in various venues at various times and I understand how difficult it can be to buy online when sizes are vague or not standard. I do my best to represent garments as accurately as possible.

My first suggestion is to get something out of your closet that has similar attributes. For example, a sweater with set in sleeves for a sweater with set in sleeves. You don't have to know exactly what set in sleeves are, just look for similarities. Don't measure something of yours that is sleeveless if you are looking at a sleeved garment.

You will need a tape measure.

Dritz Tape Measure- 5/8''x60''

First I lay the garment flat and neat on the table.

Measuring underarm to underarm.

Measuring length. Starts where the neck edge meets the collar.

Ends at the hem (this style has an open front, so the length is approximate))

Measure sleeve.

From where the top of the sleeve meets the shoulder,

to the hem.

Beginner sewing tips

2011-10-22T11:01:00.000-07:00

I've recently had the opportunity to see some of the mistakes that beginners to operating sewing machines often make. So, I've got some suggestions to make your sewing machine work better. I don't want newbies to become frustrated before they can even start sewing.

First make sure the tension dial is in the factory setting. If you don't remember where that is, put in it in the middle of the range, usually about 4. Now forget how to move this dial.

Set the machine to a 2 1/2 - 3 in the stitch length. It is easier to pick out.

Use muslin or a quilting cotton for your sewing practice. That means a quilting needle or a universal or a sharp 11. I like Schmetz and have had good success with Organ. Other brands are good, I just haven't used them. Buy a couple packs with different sizes, plus ball points.

Make sure the bobbin is wound properly. Even, not crooked, and nice and tight, not squishy to the touch. Make sure there are no tails sticking out of the top.

Make sure the bobbin is placed into the bobbin case properly, or placed into the drop bobbin properly. See your manual or these pics for examples of bobbins. There is no one size fits all answer, it depends on your machine.

Pfaff 6091, thread goes off to the right.

Bernina 950, thread goes to the left.

If your only thread stand option is like this buy one of these or these.

See your manual for proper threading. If you don't have the manual, try to find your machine here. I will try to do some more threading tutorials soon. The rules are pretty much the same, machines just look different.

Place your foot all the way up on the foot pedal, not just your toes. Use even pressure, less for slower or more to go faster.

Situate the fabric under the presser foot, needle down, then presser foot down. ONLY TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU! NEVER (NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER!) TURN THE HANDWHEEL AWAY FROM YOU! Even if it means the wheel has to go all the way around.

Let the machine do what it is designed to do. Don't "steer" the fabric, guide it. Its OK to be a little off starting out, keep your corrections gradual and it won't be as noticeable.

If you want to slow down, use less pressure with your foot, don't hold back the fabric. I can't stand the sound of working against the feed dogs.

Backstitching should be limited to about 3 stitches.

Change your needle often, this is not a place where you should be skimping and saving money. If the stitch isn't right and you are positive the threading and bobbin are correct, try a different needle, you can use this chart. Make sure the needle matches your fabric and you are using a compatible thread.

A seamstress is not a patternmaker.

2011-07-14T11:42:00.000-07:00

A seamstress is not a patternmaker. If you are looking for someone to make patterns, do not ask a seamstress. A patternmaker can sew, but if I call myself a seamstress, I am not implying that I can make patterns. If a patternmaker says he/she can't sew then find yourself another patternmaker.

I was asked many years ago to sew samples for a self-described patternmaker who lamented that she could only draft patterns but could not sew to save her life. After contracting to sew 10 designs, already cut out, for $50.00 apiece I discovered the problem. Nothing fit together. She couldn't sew because she couldn't draft. I was inexperienced at the time and brought the garments to a experienced patternmaker. She confirmed my discovery. I gave it all back and didn't charge her anything because she had spent $5000.00 for a booth at a show.

If you don't know this basic truth, its time to stop. You aren't ready for production. Go here, buy her book.

Great things are happening!

2011-06-10T12:10:00.001-07:00

Things have been busy around here! Along with an expanding family and some ongoing piece work, I've been offered a sewing educator position at the Richmond Aud. The Aud building is located in Richmond, MI and is run by the Regional Youth Complex, Inc.

I am thrilled with the opportunity to introduce and refine sewing skills in young people. There are MANY creative opportunities at the Aud building and the classroom setup is very open. Kids can drop in as long as I'm there and sew something of mine or make one of their own ideas. It is my job to help them be successful and keep the creative juices flowing. My duties will also include some costumes and alterations for the theatre program.

I started about 6 months ago after volunteering to sew costumes for a play. I had the opportunity to help with the selection of sewing machines (in spite of a limited budget we were able to purchase 4 excellent Janome Sewing Machines) and will be an important part of designing the program. This August after a brief closure of the building for new bathrooms, we will start up the program again. I enjoyed meeting and teaching the kids who came in to see me and I look forward to the new season with some new faces, ideas and enthusiasm.

Registration begins for the American Sewing Expo

2010-07-28T18:08:00.000-07:00

On September 24 - 26, 2010, the Rock Financial Showcase of Novi, Michigan hosts the largest independent sewing show in the United States. Featuring 90+ vendors, including Michigan locals Habermann Fabrics from Royal Oak and Fabric Gallery from Williamston. There are many classes, make and takes, seminars, free demonstrations, fashion shows, and the Passion for Fashion live competition. Its a great place to get a feel for fabrics, learn new tricks, and rub shoulders with other sewing enthusiasts.

Register by Internet, fax or mail. Information and tips for registering are available on their website. Special package pricing for seminars and general admission that can save from $6.00 to $60.00, depending on how much you feel you can take in on one weekend. Their website boasts that the show is too much to do in one day.

All day Workshops kick off the weekend on Wednesday and Thursday. Choices include making a jacket, a quilt or a blouse. Learning how to drape, make buttons or make and use silk screens. It will not be difficult to find a class you'd like to try, but to only select one! There are 1 hour Lectures as well as 2 to 4 hour Hands on classes held throughout the weekend. Instructors are designers, artists and teachers who are excited by their craft and thrilled to share their knowledge with interested students. Topics include things like fancy jeweled zippers, Tye-dyeing fabrics, Leather 101 and much, much more. Learn about an innovative product, a better technique or a new skill.

The show has always held appeal for the seasoned quilters and garment sewers, but in the last couple of years it has made extra effort to encourage and entertain the next generation of crafters. With the Reconstruction Zone and the Threadbanger Duo, plus the Sew Experience Café and live Fashion Shows there is never a dull moment and plenty to watch if you need a break from shopping or learning in the seminars. Whether your hobby is fashion sewing, quilting, needle arts, home dec, crafting or you are looking to find something that inspires you, the Expo is a great place to spend the weekend!

(image is the 2010 brochure from the sewing expo website)

Sorry, no Passion for Fashion for me this year

2010-07-27T11:22:00.000-07:00

Boo Hoo! I just got my entry for the Passion for Fashion Competition back in the mail today. Along with a very nice rejection letter. So this year I will not be participating. But at least my Dear Husband can wear his shirt now! I made him throw it on for the picture right out of the package.

I wrote about my great experience with the contest in 2008. See the entries here.

I guess now I need to study the brochure and decide what days I will be attending the expo show!

Watching Project Runway

2010-07-10T20:17:00.000-07:00

I'm watching my dvd's for the second time. I have Season 1 thru 5.

I ask for them for Christmas, because at my inlaws we trade names and its hard to shop for each other. And they aren't too expensive $17.49 to $27.95 each. (A month of cable is more!) I think I like them better this time because I'm not guessing about who is going to win. Its more fun to look at what they are doing. I'm inspired by their efforts and humbled by their imagination and abilities under pressure.

The show has a lot of drama, too. Anyone has a breakdown and a fight or a big mouth and that will definately get broadcast. The designers are big characters, I think its a combination of picking good characters and having a lot of interesting people to choose from. Season 2 has Santino Rice and Season 4 has Christian Siriano. Two larger than life people. I wouldn't recommend it for children, there is bad language, drinking, etc., but it is great adult entertainment. Santino (@santinorice) broadcasts on Twitter and I nearly dropped my laptop when he followed me back!

My husband says we may be getting cable, so I might be able to watch season 8 live. I'm not sure if I really like that idea, I will have to wait to see the successive episodes, not just slip in the next dvd!

I'm asking for season 6 and 7 this year! Maybe one of my brothers will buy one for me too :)

week #4

That's green beans in the bag and the squash was really (really!) good, I'm excited about next weeks share, we did get a little rain last week!

My Entry, PFF 2010

2010-07-02T12:31:00.000-07:00

At the last moment,I got an entry ready for the Passion for Fashion contest in the Novi American Sewing Expo Show this fall. Unfortunately, I didn't make anything new. The machines were all busy making other things for clients and charity. I sent in a shirt I made earlier this year for a job opportunity, I was asked to bring some samples of my work and she said she was especially interested in men's shirts. My poor husband, I made the shirt in his size, but neglected to add the buttonholes for 2 or 3 months. I added them Tuesday night at Midnight, but if I get into the contest he won't be able to wear the shirt till October!

I'm not positive I will make it in. The contest says the entries will be judged 50% on creativity and 50% on sewing ability. While I'm confident I sewed the shirt well, I followed a pattern, and besides matching stripes, there is nothing specifically creative. So, I'll just wait it out till August 1st when the contestants are notified! Wish me luck!

And Week #3 of my farm share:

This is the first week it felt low to me, but that is the nature of the farm! I know soon it will be too much to eat. Now I have to figure out how to prepare Kolerabi. And last week I did get garlic, I mistook it for an onion! At least until I tried to cut it.....

Week #2

2010-06-23T16:24:00.000-07:00

I love my farm share!

Words from the farm........
"As I mentioned above still a light week. Honestly that's not anything new for the beginning of the season. I do think that you will see an increase starting next week. Things are looking good, we needed some rain (getting some now!) and with the heat things are growing. The early heat has been hard of some of the early crops-the greens and lettuce really prefer temps in the 70's this 80 degree weather isn't what it prefers, but we are trying to keep the crop irragated to make it happy.

So this week you got some more lettuce-there was some red leaf,some romaine, and some butterhead harvested. If you ended up with a romaine that has spots on the leaves-please do not think it is bad. It's a type or red romaine called freckles and the spots are supposed to be there :)

It really was not in my plan to give you 2 bags of lettuce in these smaller shares, but I had no other green that was ready to harvest for you yesterday. It is important for me to give you what I have-and I have lettuce-SO lots of salads this week!

Garlic scapes & fresh garlic :)

Bunching Onions

Roma Tomatoes

Enjoy!"

I did not get garlic. I got peas!
We had delicious salads for dinner. I was too hungry to get a pic ;) Maybe next time.......

Book Review: The Mary Frances Sewing Book by Jane Eayre Fryer

2010-06-22T19:51:00.000-07:00

Have you seen this book? I think it is a treat! Originally published in 1913, it takes a young girl through sewing lessons with the help of the thimble people, a sewing bird and other new friends. It comes with 16" doll sized patterns to copy and make too.

It has several glossy color pages and the table of contents includes topics like, I. Sewing Bird, II. Sewing Bird Begins to Teach and XIV. A Loan From the Thimble King. There are 33 Patterns included. From a Doll's Laundry Bag, to Doll's Lawn Petticoat, to a Girl's Collar. Instructions for How to Outfit a Work Basket, a Canvas Sampler and 44 others.

I dug mine out again because a friend has an 11 year old daughter who loves books and is interested in sewing. I gave her some sewing supplies, a Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing book and fabric last summer and she was happy and busy making a chair cover. I was pleased and impressed! She did a wonderful job!

I bought the book when it was re-published in 1997, I had been searching for it on auction sites. I'm not ready to part with mine, but I am going to see if she would like to borrow my copy for the summer. I still harbor dreams of a little girl of my own who might someday like to go on an adventure among the thimble people! :)

Stuff That Needs Doin'

2010-06-20T13:03:00.000-07:00

I've been cleaning up my workspace this week. I'm also trying to get an out building ready for use. I have a 5' by 10' table I built out there five years ago for a job I was working on. The stuff I need to do is going to be spread out on the table. It is a bunch of fabric "scraps" from a woman I work for who dyes silk. I make scarves and shawls out of yardage leftovers from other clothing. The pieces I have are left from many previous projects and a work load all its own. I have been procrastinating because it is so much work sorting, but it needs doin' and I have finally made the space.

Three bins full! Thats my Juki, it is set at a 3 thread, I do this work all rolled hem. I have two of these machines, and I love them, but thats a topic I need to do in another blog post...

I also dragged out my Rowenta that I got as part of my PFF challenge in 2008. Its no Gravity Feed and I prefer the one I have in my other workroom, but its a nice portable iron for my needs right now.

It will feel like a major accomplishment to get this work finished and send back the leftovers!

Incidentally, if I plan to enter the contest again this year I had better get my act together! The deadline is July 1st!!

Week #1

2010-06-16T20:05:00.000-07:00

We started our Organic farm share this week! I'm so excited I'm sharing here:)

The box:

We got a full share so its 2 boxes:

We also get an email telling us what our share contains:
"We did end up with some nice mini purplette bunchining onion. Some garlic scapes (see link for recipes), some Kale in the bunch. It may not be the type of kale you are used to seeing. I picked heirloom varieties yesterday. Kale is the new hot green this season. It's super good for you. It can be used in your smoothie, in a salad or it can be cooked like any green-treat just like you would spinach or chard. Lettuce we harvested some butterhead & romaine for you. If you ended up with a speckled romaine that's the way it's supposed to be. It's a red romaine called "freckles" the spots are meant to be there-it's not bad lol! Danny grabbed the radishes for you and then spent the rest of the day planting more seeds so that you will see your shares grow!" Plus we got 2 pints of fresh strawberries, YUM!!

My breakfast, our own farm fresh eggs with garlic scapes. Guess what I'm having tomorrow??

Interesting Question

2010-06-10T20:36:00.000-07:00

I use blogpatrol.com to track visitors and popular topics to my blog. It is free and I find it very useful. Tonight I see that someone found my blog by searching for "sewing machine used by Christine Jonson". I happen to know that answer, and it is not already written here in the posts.

Christine uses a (*drum roll please*) Pfaff 1222 E! I looked here for a picture of hers, but the one that shows up is not the original one. She has a beautiful all metal body 1222 E. She does have another that looks like these, but she bought it later as an extra shop machine.

An important feature is the dual feed. I was sold on it after using Christine's machine and I couldn't find a used 1222 E or another used Pfaff at that time (I think it was about 1995). It was before the internet became so useful! I bought a new one. It was the cheapest Pfaff I could get at the time with dual feed. And I suspect the shopkeeper gave me a deal. I paid $600.00, it was worth every penny and was the most I could afford at the time. I still have it accessible, have used it very heavily (it has a thread mark!) and it still runs like a dream. It handles all types of fabrics expertly. I just used it this week because my industrial Pfaff 563 wouldn't sew vinyl.

My Pfaff Varimatic 6091.

Holy cats! You can still get one!

I encourage anyone who has a similar question for Christine to ask her! I'm sure she would answer your questions in good spirit :)

Tutorial: Make a Bookcover

2010-06-04T13:32:00.000-07:00

Our Vacation Bible School this year is decorating bookcovers as a craft. I was asked to help make them. I decided to post a tutorial here because of a cute gift my cousin gave me for Christmas. The Sewing: 2010 Day-to-Day Calendar. It has great crafty ideas for people just starting to sew or looking for fast fun projects. I've even got a couple pages saved to try out :)

The book I was given to fit is The Catholic Youth Bible. Now I know there are more accurate ways to do this, but this is how I make a fast cover.

First I draw a straight line on a large piece of Kraft Paper with a ruler. This is the bottom.

Then I mark the size of the front.

The spine.

The Back.

Then the front.

And back again.

Then I added 1/2" seam allowance to the bottom (I wasn't the only one sewing these and the ladies said they would be most comfortable with that seam allowance)

And the top, plus 1/4" for ease. If it had been hard cover I would have added 1/2" for ease.

This is the center back piece, it is one front, notice the seam allowances and ease added the same as the cover piece.

Next I removed 1" from both sides of the pattern. I only have a picture of it taken from the left side. It needs to come off the right side too. This makes room on the inside of the book cover for the spine.

The fold line is the first line on both sides. See it marked 4 pictures up :)

I made a pattern on taped together Manilla File Folders , and its a good thing, because we made 200! Any other paper would have been totally trashed. This was used well as it is! I notched the fold lines and the center back. Plus the center of the back piece.

The covers are made from a nice heavy weight muslin from Joann's with the use of the 40% off coupon that comes in the mailers.
I used my trusty Juki overlock to neatly finish the side edges of the cover and the center back piece. I did all 200!

Folded at the notches. The notches were all marked with pen in the seam allowance.

We used Ribbon to add 2 bookmarks at the center notch.

After both sides are folded back at the notches, the center piece is added, over the bookmark, matching center notches.

Ready to sew. Make sure the bookmarks go off to the side, you only want to catch them in the top, not the bottom.

I used a Pfaff mine is a 563.

I went back and made a double set of stitches at the bookmark.

Turn the center piece first. (The overlock stitch quality is poor because I was lazy and I did not change the needle!)

Then the sides. I did not clip the corners. I wanted to fill in the corners.

Isn't she lovely?

I may be asking for trouble

2010-05-02T12:38:00.000-07:00

But I really can't help myself. I'm trying something weird again. I signed up for a 2'X 3' space at Countryside Craft Mall in Sterling Heights, MI. Some reviews here.

It is a small space, and I need to add some signs and maybe something to help catch the eye. I'll work on it. I stopped in as a spur of the moment kind of thing on April 30 and went in on May 1 to set up my bags and sign the lease. I got a deal on the space because none of the smallest spaces were available.

I'm gonna try it. It will end up costing a little more than my ill fated show, but I did sell 2 bags there. I like this venue because, much like etsy, it doesn't require my presence. And it allows customers to see the bags in person, which I think is a huge benefit. I'm going to give it 6 months. Hopefully it will be worth it! I'll keep you posted.

My "Craft" Fair

2010-04-17T18:55:00.000-07:00

Last September I got a booth at the Richmond Good Old Days Festival. I haven't written about it till now because not only did I *not* walk the show ahead of time, but the whole experience highlights my weaknesses. I wanted the show to be a good fit because my husband has worked as a parade marshall for about 20 years, and wouldn't it be sweet if I could be involved too, sigh...

Its really my own fault, it would have been super easy to see that I would have a hard time selling there. I made up a bunch of my totes, with many improvements. I am proud of that.

I bought a 10 X 10 awning and set up my wares (red probally wasn't the best choice).

If you've done a fair, you can probally see problems right away. I really wanted to hide in the back and let my bags sell themselves. I got some tips from my cousin's husband, and made some changes, but I still need to work on getting out of my comfort zone. I'm so happy just sewing away in my little shop and leaving the selling to everyone else.

I need to make the booth more welcoming, I need better/more signage, and things need to be displayed more, spread out. I also included some old stuff, not really representative of what I'm doing now.

I'm sure I lost at least one sale because I'm such a dork, but I just have to make up my mind about what I'm doing. Its not like I can't be social, its just that I'm not comfortable presenting my work. I was at a store in Royal Oak once, I had made up some bags to try and get them in a shop. I was just walking around, trying to see if they fit in anywhere. A shopkeeper complimented me on the one I was carrying! Perfect opportunity, right! Yeah, know what I said?? Thanks. Goofball!

The ground was sloping forward, so that was a little bit annoying too. I loved my tablecloth, I'm not sure how well it shows up here.

I'd like to try again at another show, but I need to do more research first. I think a juried show would have definate benefits, or at least a show that made sure the vendors at their "craft" fair were selling handcrafted.

I'm planning on taking a ride to Royal Oak Farmers Market and seeing if maybe I could sell there a day or two. A friend suggested Eastern Market in Detroit might be a better fit. So in the meantime, I just picked up some more jeans at a Rummage sale and its time to make some more and post on Etsy.

Oh, and my cousin who came out to see the booth is the one who was also at the Novi show when I did the Contest there. We both have an interest in sewing, that's how she ended up there. I made a comment that she was my biggest fan, what I meant was she's my only fan :D

Have you heard....

2010-04-10T11:20:00.000-07:00

About the Pattern Review book? It is titled 1,000 Clever Sewing Shortcuts and tips, and uses tips submitted by members of PR in the book.

It is a Charity project for the National Breast Cancer Foundation by the founder of PR, Deepika. She is giving away her author's fee to the people on PR who have had their tips chosen and all of her royalties will be donated to her charity.

I have a tip on PR from 2008 and it was chosen to be in the book! Its a blog post here. What a neat thrill :) Of course I will have to get a copy of the book just to see my name (my PR name of course) in print. I have let my PR membership expire, but I've been meaning to re up.

My thread rack :)

Work Meanderings

2010-04-09T19:05:00.000-07:00

I've had an interesting year. I've kept working for some of the same people, done some recycling and kept my eye out for new work. I'm happy to be working and enjoying the insanity of cutting up denim, but I haven't had much luck with getting anything new.

I'm sort of at a crossroads, I want a better client. And by that I mean production ready patterns, placement guides, product specifications, a sample garment. You know a tech pack! I learned the names for what I was looking for on F-I. I don't want to have to work so hard to make things look good. It is an accomplishment to turn a professional garment out sometimes, but it is so much more fun to not have to fuss so much. Do you know what I mean?

I've had plenty of inquiries to my site in the past year, but looking at it only stresses the position I'm in. I can tell by some of the emails that people aren't really ready for me, but I usually send a response anyway. I let people know what I need in order to give them a quote for a sewing order. You'd be surprised at some of the emails. "Dear Diane, How much to make a shirt? Thanks XXXX". I really wish it wasn't true, but indeed.

I have talked to some and even met with a couple, one I was planning on doing some extra help for , cleaning up her not production ready patterns because I wanted the experience and I thought she would be an excellent rep for her own line. Obviously it didn't work as well as I would have liked, I had to tell her I wasn't the right fit for her. She didn't get it that I needed everything written down with a sample of the fabric for each order, and she wasn't finished changing the patterns. Another was like the stuff I have been doing, but it was going to fill in work when I had time. She never paid me a measly eight dollars for a sample I made! This after she wasted my time insisting on telling me the long version of her NY contracting mis-adventure on the phone.

The best opportunity so far in the past year has been a semi local meeting with someone, via craigslist, who has a small sewing factory. I know I'm not exactly what she wants, I sew at home. But now she knows I exist and I hope I can be useful to her.

Back to my dilemma, I want the better client, but I don't yet have the best equipment. I won't be able to do things as fast as perhaps I should. I've never been the kind of business person who spends money that I don't have. I do spend all of my profits on equipment though! So I need to find a way to produce at a price designed to not kill me and be fair to those I would sew for until I can get the equipment I need to really make me competitive.

I need to update my web page too. I feel like the current one doesn't represent me well, it doesn't reflect my current workspace and it needs more information to give to potential clients. I am strongly considering listing my machines/attachments and possibly showcasing some samples. Of course I'd have to make them from patterns because I can't use client work. I'm not sure what the best way to present myself will be. I have to think about it.

My Goal?? I want to be a small minimum CMT shop. Right now I'm leaning toward single needle construction. I will expect to be outgrown my my clients so I will have a lot of variety in my sewing and a bushel full of attachments. My dream job!

More Quilt tops for the Prayer Blanket Ministry

2010-01-08T10:47:00.000-08:00

I'm not labeling them for the months anymore because I've lost track and gotten behind on my one a month. One is missing because I didn't really like it so I didn't take a picture, but I regret it now....

my first fence rail

I started this one a long time ago and finished it for the Ministry

And denim -go figure the woman in charge wanted denim....

I have to finish them now too, the woman who was doing it had knee surgery so I don't get to do just the fun part now....

You can see my other quilt tops here.

Style #61002 - Pattern on Manilla Paper

2009-07-18T15:21:00.000-07:00

I've remade another pattern on Manilla File Folders. This one is bigger so I had to tape some together. I can't believe how much easier it is to have them this way!

Some of my new pattern tools. A screw punch and pattern notcher from here.

Recommended by FI. I really need that see-thru plastic ruler, but it will have to wait.

My new bag, I love, love, love it!

It is on Etsy!

My Babylock Evolve

2009-07-13T17:58:00.000-07:00

Remember my Evolve from last years PFF challenge? (And by the way, in case you were wondering, I did not send in an entry for this years contest, maybe next year....) Well I finally gave it a try. Hey! Its only been 9 months!

Anyway, the machine came with a video that shows how to thread it. It is definately appreciated. I'm not sure I could have figured it out without it. The machine works great! I had some piecework that needed a coverstitch.

My machine and sample coverstitch.

What a beautiful stitch! I'd like to have the clear foot and I definately need more practice lining up the stitch on the round, but the machine is amazing. No problems with the tensions, the machine does all the work. Its not an industrial machine, and feels kinda slow to me, but I think I read it will go 1200 stitches per minute.

So with the contest last year I've tried the wide overlock stitch, rolled hem and now the coverstitch. All stitches look great and no problems with any of the different weights of fabric.

Making Motivation

2009-07-08T19:49:00.000-07:00

I've been reading FI and I decided to practice and update some of my tote patterns. I'm issuing style numbers, making production patterns with color coding and I will be making a direction card after I streamline the sewing (again).

In order to motivate myself, (I'm a procrastinator, I finished sewing about 5 things before I started getting paid to sew) I signed up for a tent at a local festival this September. Only problem is I have NOTHING to put in the booth. (OK I have a dozen things, but it feels like nothing)

Here is what my original pattern looked like.

Here is what the new color coded, labeled and separate pattern pieces look like. (I have the blue in pencil because I don't have a blue pen yet)

traced out on jeans

Here is a finished bag from the new pattern on manilla paper. It isn't perfect and I skipped the pocket, but it is much easier having everything ready.

It makes me crazy seeing what a difference it makes to have each piece separate and labeled. It took forever to make the patterns, but I was doing it every time I made a new bag! I was redoing the placement for the handles and pocket every time. And I didn't even have a strap pattern just a measurement written on the shell piece! Now I can just go thru all the pieces and I'm ready to sew, before I had to remember which ones I reused for lining and interfacing (and they aren't supposed to be the same size anyway!). The harder paper makes a huge difference too. I haven't purchased a roll yet, I'm just using manilla file folders.

My style number is 61001. I have chosen 6 for accessories because I like the way it sounds. I have 5 numbers because I am prone to excess, plus I am considering using the second number to differentiate between recycled,recycled patchwork,and just plain fabric. Even though I'm not using a different pattern, the work and cost for each of the different styles would be notable for customer ordering or inventory. The last three numbers are for numbering the 999 bag patterns I plan on making (ha ha!).

An example:
recycled denim

recycled patchwork denim (different size bag)

fabric

I also need to make a direction card, as the link explains, it is necessary for sewing production. In my case I'm lame for not having done it sooner because my memory is good, but I rarely sew it in the most efficient order when I haven't touched it in a while. That is my next task.

Tutorial: Thread a Bernina 950

2009-05-30T11:23:00.000-07:00

This is how I thread my Bernina 950. This is a pic of mine, I added a thread stand after I bought it.

This is a view from the back. Right now the machine is threaded from the thread stand. If using cone thread and a thread stand, first the thread goes through the top of the stand, then the hook behind the thread post, then the hook behind the take up lever. If you are using a spool on the thread post, the only hook you use is the one behind the take up lever.

Another closer view of the hook behind the take up lever. And showing the thread going into the guide toward the front of the machine.

The thread comes from the back on the right through the guide. Down and under the thread regulator, up through the take up lever, and down through the thread guide just above the needle, then through the needle.

Hard to see, but it is important to note that the needle is inserted slightly off center. The eye should be facing between the 6 and 7 on a clock. The long groove is the front of the needle. Organ 16X231 BALL POINT Needles and Organ 16X231 SHARP Needles .

This is how the bobbin goes in the bobbin case. The thread rolls off over in the direction you see the thread going.

Another look. Bobbin in case. Sorry its a little fuzzy, you get the idea...

I hate winding bobbins in the middle of a project (thought you can with the Bernina 950)or unwinding bobbins for a new thread color. I bought 20 extra Bobbins as soon as I could find them.

Some Basic Sewing Information.....

2009-05-29T11:21:00.000-07:00

1.Don't turn the hand wheel backwards. Never. It should only be turned towards you.
This is something that comes naturally to me because I learned to sew on a treadle machine. I'm surprised at how many people try to do this. This is the best way to mess up the timing on your machine.

2.Leave the tension on your machine alone! The only reasons you should be touching it are for speciality feet, special needles or some machines ask the tension dial to be set differently for the button hole. First rethread, make sure the bobbin is in correctly, and make sure the needle is the right size and type for the fabric you are sewing. Otherwise leave it on the factory setting.

3.If you want to slow the fabric down, step lighter on the presser foot. Don't slow the fabric down by holding it back. You will get an uneven stitch and just might break your motor too.

4.The sewing machine sews in a straight line. You are not making the sewing machine sew straight, you are guiding the fabric under the presser foot in an even fashion. If you veer off correct gently, don't try to do it too fast.

That is all I can think of right now, I've been reading Yahoo answers and I'm not happy with some of the sewing advice that is given. I really have to stop reading. They are always telling people to adjust tensions! I RARELY touch my tensions. I have to stop reading them. Someone is insisting that you have to thread your machine with the presser foot up?!? Huh? What nonsense! As if that makes any difference at all. In fact, I'd say I'm more likely to thread the machine with the presser foot down! My Industrial machines have a knee lift, so the presser foot is definately down when the machine is threaded. And with my home machines, I put the foot down when I'm threading to get it out of the way of the needle. The only time I can think of it making a difference is if there is an auto threader that requires it to be up.

OK, I think I feel better now. Sigh....

Christine has a Blog!

2009-05-07T10:30:00.000-07:00

Christine Jonson Patterns now has a blog! Keep updated on what is new in Christine's studio, what kind of new fabrics she has found and when the new patterns are coming out.

Christine hired me in her retail shop in 1995 and it began my career in sewing. I've learned an incredible amount from her over the years. She is always willing to pass on what she knows. I hope you can learn from her too!

Visit Christine and see what is new!

Lots of fun at Swap-O-Rama-Rama!

2009-05-05T12:18:00.001-07:00

I had a great time at the SORR booth at the Green Street Fair. As always it was fun to be around others who were interested in sewing. I took a picture of the booth at the beginning of the day and promptly forgot about my camera. Sigh... I hate when I do that...

Anyway here is how it looked before the fair officially opened:

There were half a dozen sewing stations and a bin of reusables on both ends. The machines are the Singer 3116 Simple Sewing Machine

I really have mixed feeling about them. On the one hand, they are a reasonably priced, lightweight, multi function sewing machine and operate at a slow speed. I think it would be a good machine for a young person just beginning to take an interest in sewing, especially if you weren't sure that the interest would continue. On the other hand, they had some trouble with multiple thicknesses and their lightness could become a problem quickly if the interest did proceed quickly. They would be good mostly for quilting fabrics or other lightweight materials. And larger projects could be a problem because they might drag on the machine. So you see my indecision...

I still enjoyed myself. I spent about 4 hours in the tent. I helped to make a shawl, turban and some tote bags. I hope to have another opportunity. I'll keep you posted on local swaps as I find out about them. I'd love to have a permanent swap with a huge pile of recyclables, sewing machines and interested stitchers!

Tutorial: Redo a worn out elastic waistband

2009-05-01T17:48:00.000-07:00

You know you are getting old when you hear that crackle of elastic that has stretched its last stretch. Or hey! Maybe you aren't old, but you love a good thrifty find or vintage garment.

I've got a favored pair of pants, I bought them at a yard sale in 1995, for a dollar, I can remember the rack on the porch in Royal Oak, MI where I found them. Isn't that strange, that I can remember? I've called them my elephant pants, but I always get compliments when I wear them.

The old elastic is overlocked (serged) in and stitched down. I'll be redoing it the same way, but I'll offer suggestions for sewing if you don't have an overlock machine:

Click on any picture to see a larger photo.
Find a thread to clip in the right side, I use my Fiskars Softouch
clips, but you can use a seam ripper.
Clip between the layers, gently pulling apart, 2 to 4 threads at a time.

I secured the pocket with a pin because it doesn't go to the top of the waistband and because I don't want to waste time later figuring out which way the pocket goes.

Next cut the threads on one side of the elastic, then separate the layers again, slightly pulling and cutting a small amount at a time.

Old elastic-New elastic. My new is a little thinner, but that is OK because I plan on cutting a little of the fabric off with the overlock to have the stitches in securely. It is a good idea to replace the elastic (braided 1'' wide) with as similar as you can so you aren't changing the way the garment fits or changing the seam allowances.

Just wanted to show here that I switched the direction of the pin so it wouldn't have to be taken out while overlocking.

I don't have a good and fast rule for elastic length, only that whatever you use needs to be shorter than you think. Elastic grows every time you sew through it. If you know of a good chart I'd be happy to see it. Another suggestion is to look at a commercial pattern that has the same kind of waistband you are doing and use your corresponding measurement.

First butt ends together, extra secure. I'm using my Bernina 950

I mark the elastic with a pen in 1/4 before sewing.

Next using my Juki MO644D to overlock the elastic to the pants. I match my pen marks to the side seams and center front/back. I'm also taking off about 1/4" with the knife blade. (I should have pressed the waist before sewing, but what can I say :D) If you don't have an overlock, finish the raw edge at the waist with you preferred method and sew with a straight stitch or zigzag to secure the elastic and the following step works the same way.

Finally stitch the elastic down with a straight stitch, you can do right side up too, I just wanted to make sure I caught the pockets.

Finished!

Time to Enter: Passion for Fashion Challenge 2009

2009-04-27T18:31:00.000-07:00

The American Sewing Expo, in Novi, MI, is now accepting applications for the 2009 Passion for Fashion Challenge! Head on over to their site and print out the entry form for the Design and Sewing Competition. Entry garments must be postmarked by July 1, 2009. I entered my skirt, had a blast last year and won 2nd place! I'm not sure yet if I'll do it this year, September 25 and 26, 2009, but if you'd like to enter it is only $25.00.
Prizes will include but are not limited to:
First-An exciting trip to New York with the ASE tour and a Baby Lock Aspire Sewing Machine
Second-Baby Lock Imagine Wave Serger
Third-Baby Lock Decorator's Choice Sewing Machine
Good Luck!

Swap-O-Rama-Rama in Plymouth, Michigan

2009-04-26T12:13:00.000-07:00

Handmade Detroitis sponsoring a Swap-O-Rama-Rama in Plymouth at the Green Street Fair this weekend, May 1 to 3,2009. I'll be in the tent offering help to aspiring designers Sunday morning. It sounds like a load of fun, so stop by, bring some unwanted clothing and bring home something new!

Issues with Commercial Patterns

2009-04-04T09:26:00.000-07:00

I just made some robes from this pattern. For a church ceremony.

Simplicity 4213

I only made view 1, and it had to be finished quickly so I didn't take pictures.

But here is the issue:

The bottom of the sleeve is drafted to be too small to fit the fold back hem. It is a simple fix, I extended the line so that the hem now will fold back easily.

The problem with this is that someone who can't see that this fix needs to be made will automatically assume that the problem is them and that they can't sew. The pattern overall was great, but this affects the final product. I understand how something like this could happen, whenever I need to make alterations to a pattern or something I'm working on, I have to step away so I can think about it. The pattern companies need to be more careful. This was a simple mistake, but has the potential to cause great frustrations. And frustrated sew*ers stop trying!

A good source for pattern reviews is here. I'm on it too.

The Value in Quilting

2009-03-29T14:43:00.000-07:00

Whether you are just starting to sew or you are a pro, don't under estimate the value in quilting. Quilting is a good way to get to know your sewing machine*, become comfortable sewing without pins and become a faster sewing machine operator.

I took a quilting class many years ago and we used the Make a Quilt in a Day : Log Cabin Pattern book. This is how I quilt. First I cut 2 1/2" strips with my Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat. Then I do minor planning and just happily sew away!

An added bonus is choosing beautiful Designer Quilting Fabricsand other Quilting Fabric at Joann.com And you don't have to have much of each to make a small lap quilt 45" X 60"! Just make sure one style has enough to do the back. I'm always surprised at how wonderful they turn out, even if I'm not sure of my fabric choices.

I've been making some quilt tops for the Prayer Blanket Ministry. Its my way of giving back. One a month is the current goal. Another person is happy to finish them so it works out for both of us!

December 2008:

January 2009:

February 2009:

March 2009:

Sewing Lessons in Memphis, MI

2009-03-27T04:40:00.000-07:00

So, I'm thinking about offering sewing lessons or tutoring in St Clair or Northern Macomb county. I'd have to rent or buy space somewhere.

I'd maybe do a Saturday class or after school class or daytime class for Homeschoolers. My question to YOU is how many would be interested or willing to drive to 48041 zip?

I could include my fabric and pattern stash in the cost of the class, I could do beginner to advanced. I could become an instructor for Islander Sewing Systems. We could make your design or use a pattern.

I'm still in the early stages of thought on this, I have been sewing with my cousin, a beginner, and had a great time.

If you read this and think it is something you would do, please, please comment or write to me at diane[@]thoughtsfromaseamstress.com

Make an Extra Large Thread Rack

2008-11-12T08:26:00.000-08:00

I'm in the process of moving my sewing work space from the basement to the attic. Ahhhh, sunlight. It has been down in the basement way too long. It will be crowded up here, but worth it.

I need another thread rack, so I'm making it again.

I get a piece of 2' X 4' peg board and 1/4" by 48" dowels and Wood Glue from a hardware store.

I used a dremel to cut the dowels into 5 1/4" pieces and proceed to glue them in, slightly slanted upwards.

I didn't put the dowels as close as I could have, you will have to experiment based on the amount of room you have available.

Hung up....

I have 4 total, I'll take a pic of the work space when its all up here.

CraftStylish Sewing Room Contest

2008-11-07T07:15:00.000-08:00

All you have to do, to win $7000.00 in prizes, is to use their room generator and "design" your "Ultimate Sewing room". There are over 1000 entries now so the judges who will be choosing the final 10 will have quite a challenge. The winner will be chosen by us peeps!

The Contest. Don't forget to register or log in before you start!

Check out my "Ultimate Sewing Room!

More Patternmaking, and Tools

2008-11-05T08:24:00.000-08:00

I suggested some pattern drafting and draping books in a previous post ,but I failed to mention necessary tools. A few good rulers, a tape measure and some curved rulers are necessities.

Amazon.com Widgets

I own a set of Fairgate rulers, plus a bunch of misc. ones.

I've also acquired some additional books because I went and looked and bought some after the last post...

I picked up a copy of The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Menswear because I also am interested in sewing for Men. The suggested books at the bottom lured me in and I got Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear too, because I made a man's costume jacket once for a relative and had trouble with the construction. Menswear has different rules than womenswear, because suits are much more structured for men that women.

I also now own a copy of Donald McCunn's book How to Make Sewing Patterns. Mr. McCunn has a Yahoo! group dedicated to making patterns and makes himself, as well as many other talented individuals, available for answering questions. He is also offering online classes, I signed up for the first one, but became ill and was unable to participate. And things have been too busy around here to try another one this year. The concept of the first class was unique, we were to draft aprons for a wine bottle. It was a cost saving idea, a wine bottle is much cheaper to obtain than a 1/4 size dressform, yet still requires darts for proper fitting.

American Sewing Expo, Baby Lock Passion for Fashion 2008, Novi,MI

2008-10-11T11:09:00.000-07:00

If you can't tell by my other posts(day 1,day 2,day 3), I really enjoyed taking part in the challenge. I was surrounded by wonderfully talented sewing enthusiasts/designers/patternmakers (one here and here)and my regret is that we didn't get to spend time together without competing.

The final garments:

At least 2 of the contestants were only 18, and I'm amazed at what they can do. I did not have the confidence or composure at that age to enter such a contest and succeed as they have done. Many more pictures here. Choose Passion for Fashion Show or PFF in Progress Galleries.

In one of the filming sessions I was asked if I would join the contest again, I amswered quickly, "no". I didn't have an answer when they asked why? At the time I was thinking, Now I know what its all about I don't have to do it again. I think now that perhaps I would do it again someday, but not for a couple of years, Maybe.

If you think you would like to try the contest, I'd send in a garment. On Sunday, we had the opportunity to take any classes, compliments of the American Sewing Expo and the Experience more than pays for the $25 entry fee!

My serger and entry garment and winning outfit came in the mail/AmEx on Thursday. All contestants also received a American Sewing Expo 2008 tote, Easy Zippers DVD, Rowenta Iron, and Kai Scissors (mine came in really handy during the contest!).

This serger is really cool! I have a lot of learning to do there. It can sew with 8 threads at once! I was really wanting a coverstitch machine and this has that and oh so much more. My "local" Babylock dealer is Sandy's Sew and Vac, they said I could come in and take as many classes as I needed to get comfortable with the machine. I'm sure I will need at least one. The folks there are very friendly and helpful, if you're in Michigan (Dearborn Heights (313) 292-2660, Lincoln Park (313) 388-7350, and Livonia (734) 266 2491, They do free estimates!)and looking to try out a Babylock I recommend going there even if its a bit of a drive.

Day 3: The Fashion Show, The Winners!: Saturday September 27, 2008, Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Challenge, American Sewing Expo, Novi, MI

2008-10-04T18:29:00.000-07:00

The Final Day!

Saturday Time Line

3:00-5:00 Designers finish up garments and take models to dressing area behind the fashion stage. (Models must have their own make-up done and their hair needs to be up off their shoulders)

6:00 Kayla introduces judges. Then explains the contest and scenario. Then introduces the first designer (in alphabetical order) with their model.
-The designer stands on the stage by Kayla and the model walks down to the middle of the runway and stps, looks to the left at the photographer and waits for the photo, then continues down the rest of the runway and back up to the designer. Then both the designer and the model walk off the end of the runway together and go behind the stage.
-After the last designer and thier model have done the same as the rest, the judges will confer to pick the 6 finalists and...
-During that time, Kayla will announce the door prize winners
-Judges will then give Kayla the top six names
-Kayla will announce the 6 finalists and they will return to the stage with their models.
-Each judge may ask 2 questions only (10 questions total from all judges) and to different designers. (not2 questions to each designer)
-All designers, models and judges are to leave the fashion stage by the side.

7:00 Kayla will introduce Kenneth King and he will speak for 1/2 hour.
7:00 Kayla will announce that the dressforms that the designers used were generously provided to us by Prym-Dritz and thank everyone for coming this evening. Then announce the prizes.

All twelve designers won:
-An American Sewing Expo tote bag
-An Easy Zippers DVD from Islander Sewing Systems
-A DX8900 Professional Stream Iron from Rowenta
-3rd place winner will also win a Baby Lock Decorator's Choice Sewing Machine (Prizes valued over $1400.00
-2nd place winner will also win a Baby Lock Evolve Serger Machine (prizes valued over $2800.00)
-And the 1st place winner will also win a Dress Form from Prym Dritz, a trip to NYC from the American Sewing Expo and the Baby Lock Espire Sewing Machine from the Baby Lock Corporation (prizes valued at over $5700.00)

The 6 designers and their models will be asked to return to the stage and Kayla will announce the three non-winners, (and they will leave the stage by the side area) and then Kayla will announce the 3rd place winner up repeating her prize. Then repeat the 2nd and 1st prizes again (before announcing the winner) and then announce the 2nd place and 1st place Winners. Photos wil be taken with the top three contestants and the Baby Lock Dealer.

(There were some variations to the program but as far as I know the times are accurate)

I decided Friday night and Saturday morning that since I had enough fabric to redo the Jacket without puffy sleeves, 7 hours of sewing (8am to 3pm) was plenty of time to redo the jacket.

I got my muslin out again and this time was able to fix the shoulder slope. It just fell right into place on the dressform. I shortened the shoulder and opened up the neckline. Then I had to make the sleeve not puffy. I can't draft a sleeve really, its more about trial and error and then fudging to get what I want. Not something that I can do in one sitting, so back to the Pattermaking book. I saw how to make a normal sleeve puffy so I thought I'd just do it backwards. A little messy and time consuming, but it did end up working.

My cousin came to visit me again at lunchtime, I can't remember if I had the jacket started at this point, but she did get me thinking that it was time to get the stuff cut out and put together. I got the jacket in wearable condition just before we had to go and see the models for the final fitting at 3pm, but the flounce around the front and hem was sitting funny at the top and the sleeves were unfinished.

I was pleased with how well the skirt and top fit, but the jacket was too big. I knew I had to do something to it.

I made the scarf after returning to the arena, the Baby Lock Evolve Serger is pleasingly fast.

Someone, Kayla or Becky announced that it was quarter to five and suddenly I remembered that I was in a timed Contest. I realized I had to fix the too big top and finish the sleeves. That was the first time I felt rushed in the whole contest!

I put the elastic in the back to give the jacket some shape and managed to finish the hems and flounces in spite of the fact that the flounces were a bit too large. Just in time! It was a relief to finish the Challenge and just have to go thru the motions to see who won!

The fashion show went mostly like described above. And now what you've all been waiting for!!!

The third place winner:
Raminta Vilkiene, Livonia, MI

The 2nd place winner:
Me!
Unfortunately I can't share any scenarios except my own because I couldn't hear backstage. Mine was: She works in a conservative office building and is going to a Gallery opening in the evening. The jacket is brown on one side and matches the skirt and the reverse is the bright color shown below.

The winner:
Angie Wolf, St. Joseph, MI

Day 2: Friday September 26th 2008, Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge, American Sewing Expo, Novi, MI

2008-10-02T06:29:00.000-07:00

Finally, we get our challenge:

2008 BabyLock Passion for Fashion Scenario

This year's challenge is to create an outfit the goes from the work place to an evening event. You will be asked to explain "who she is", where she works and what the evening event is. You must also base your outfit on one of the following four elements of nature; earth, wind, fire or water. You have 30 minutes to sketch and or select a Simplicity pattern (optional) for your sloper (remember this must be your design).

Next, starting at 9:00AM you will have 1 hour and $100 to shop for your project. You must return with receipts.

After shopping you will return to the BabyLock Passion for Fashion Sewing Arena to create your challenge garment.

Your mentors are award winning fashion designer, Kayla Kennington and her assistant Becky Fulgoni, the second place winner of the 2007 BabyLock Passion for Fashion. For assistance with the sewing machines and sergers Christine Tryon from BabyLock will be in the Arena.

ASE will provide a box linch for each contestant that will arrive in the Arena around noon on both Friday and Saturday.

Good Luck!!

So in the 1/2 hour before we went shopping, a couple things happened to me. I got stuck on a reversible jacket, earth, and brown. Then we got to see the patterns we could use. There were 5 or 6 I chose 3 of them (Simplicity 2933,2801 and 2951).

Unfortunately, there were no jacket patterns, I'm pretty sure they were all dresses with empire waists of something going on in the front. I chose three and hoped to use them as a sloper. I can draft patterns, but it is very hard for me. I'm a seamstress #1 (but you can bet after this, I'll be spending more time with the patterndrafting books!)

Now time to shop, they weren't really holding us to a 1 hour only shopping time, and we were going to be allowed to pick up something extra if we needed it.

I stalked the aisles searching for fabric stalls, many of the stalls contained beautiful fabric, but at a higher price point than was possible for building an entire outfit. I knew I needed something snazzy for the evening side of the jacket, but I still needed to decide on fabric for the jacket and skirt, and see what I had left over.

Then I found Vogue Fabrics. Jackpot! Tons of quality fabrics for 3.99 and 5.99 a yard! (I'd guess most of the contestants bought at least some fabric here!) I was still wanting a wool blend because I wanted the stability, but I did have to adjust my plan, for the first time of many, and settled for a really great rayon with weight. I got 5yards at 3.99. I do have to add here though that Becky gave me a little push to get started, I was spending too much time trying to make what I have in my head somehow appear in the bolts.

I wanted something shiny for the inside, I had seen shiny and stable at Stitch in Time (281 265 2515), and wandered back over there for a look. The Burma Silk caught my eye, because it was stable, shiny and $32 for 3 3/4 of a yard, sold in little packs. With the help of the patient woman who worked there, I chose a bright color(outside my comfort zone) with subtle streaks of brown in the mix to make it a match.

One more stop to Haberman Fabrics for a bit of 7.99 brown silk I spotted in the sale aisle. I bought 3 yards because I was going to make the sleeveless top on Simplicity 2933, but again ended up changing my mind.

I spent the morning working on a jacket sloper. I was using the sleeves from 2951, I thought I wanted puffy sleeves, and sleeves and arm holes are particularly difficult for me. My cousin stopped by around noon and I had nothing to show for the day, so I decided to switch gears and actually accomplish something.

I used the neckline and arm holes from Simplicity 2933 to draft my tank top. I used two layers because the fabric was sheer. It is self faced and the hems are finished with a rolled hem and slightly longer underneath.

I got attatched to the idea of flounces at about this time and made a little bias skirt with an 8 inch flounce (flounces are found on pg. 173 of Connie Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy book, I could not have managed to create an outfit without this book)
Skirts I can draft, and I'm fond of bias for a number of reasons. I'm not sure what time it was after all this, but finally I was confident that my dear model wouldn't have to go down the aisle in "the emperor's new clothes"! I was also very pleased with how these first garments had turned out.

Back to the jacket.....

I got help from Becky again and fixed the side seam, but the shoulder slope was still wrong. I needed to have something to show for the day so I cut out the jacket, using as little fabric as was humanly possible and put the parts together so I had something to think about. I decided I didn't like the puffy sleeves too....

This was the end of the day on Friday, Day 2:
Dress forms generously provided by Dritz!

Day One: Thursday Sept 25th 2008, Babylock Passion For Fashion Sewing Challenge at the American Sewing Expo in Novi,MI

2008-09-29T08:04:00.000-07:00

The contest is over (And the results are in!), but I'm going to go day by day and fill you in on what happened each day.

I was due at the expo on Thursday night at 5:45, unfortunately I was about ten minutes late. I missed the trip the Finalists display.

Shown Below...

That's mine in the corner, with someone else's shirt on top. What an amazing array of talent represented here! I'm actually glad now that I didn't end up seeing this display until the end, the garments are very intimidating!!

First, we met our mentors (I'm sorry I didn't get a picture of them!) Kayla Kennington and Becky Fulgoni (scroll down). I've heard about Kayla before and she has been featured in magazines, Becky was totally new to me, but turned out to be a fabulous inspiration. Both are great seamstresses and I have no complaints only compliments about how well they mentored.

Next we all sat around and introduced ourselves. The youngest was 18 and the oldest was not me!! But I do think most of the contestants were in their 20's and I in my 30's was in the top four if not in the top two oldest contestants. Its hard to guess.

We had varied backgrounds, from design school to businesses, at least one other contestant sells on Etsy and four of the contestants were returning for a second try at winning the contest.

We were introduced to our sewing machines. A Babylock Espire

The sewing machine was really cool. An automatic needle threader (one of the easiest I've seen) and buttons for thread clipping, needle up, as well as many features I didn't have the chance to discover. The bobbin can wind while I'm sewing and the thread automatically positions itself correctly and doesn't reqiure holding (or doesn't pull itself unthreaded right when your hands are full!!)

and our serger a Babylock Evolve (waaay over to the left....)

The best thing about the serger was Christine! She was there for sewing machine support and did all the thread changes for us at the show. In fact we didn't even get a intro on these, because she was available to quickly take care of it. How is that for easy serger thread change!!

Next it was time to meet the models. They were all lovely, and I found myself analyzing each of them as they walked down the runway. We ended up choosing our models by drawing numbers out of a hat. This was the fairest way. I ended up with a model named Breanna. We all walked over to the sewing area, measured the models and were done for the evening!

I had a really hard time sleeping with all the nervous excitement, but the next day did arrive!!

Recycled Denim Jacket

2008-09-17T16:43:00.000-07:00

I made a denim jacket from three pair of blue jeans and one skirt using Butterick Pattern B0458, by Connie Crawford. I first mentioned the pattern here. As usual my pictures of the garment are not so great, but I'll keep trying!

And this close up turned out a little better.

I also took many picture of how I laid out the pattern pieces on the denim if you are interested you can see them on Flickr

Here is a view of the pieces ready to go together.

I chose the pieces by color, the facing pieces were a slightly lighter weight and that was a real bonus. All the denim was fairly lightweight, I wouldn't recommend diong this jacket with Levi's. The sleeves are cut with the out seam still sewn and there are darker pockets showing on the back of the side back pieces (I removed the pocket to make it fit). All the side pieces are from the skirt, the center front and back pieces are from one pair, and all the facings are from the last pair. Also my collar and cuffs are on the opposite grain.

I mostly followed the directions, I talk more about the construction here on Pattern Review.

A bonus to working with old jeans is the cost, if I make a mistake its not a big deal. And there are plenty out there. Choose Larger sizes if you are going to try something similar.

A drawback to recycling is that a lot of the denim is stretched in spots and may take more fussing, particularly the sleeves. And a caution, I have a couple of wear spots on my finished jacket, I should have looked things over a little better.

I LOVE my new jacket, I think it turned out awesome. I do have to decide what to use for buttons, but I have time. I'll definately be trying some more patterns. I need to do some drafting too. This is something that would be great for selling.

My Itinerary and Supplies

2008-08-09T17:10:00.000-07:00

I received my itinerary and list of supplies this week for the Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Challenge. So I'm really going to be in it! I'm very excited and can't believe I really have to wait until the end of September.

I made my hotel reservations today, Thursday till Sunday morning. Thursday night we have to be at the Rock Financial Showplace for our contest orientation, meeting our mentor Kayla Kennington and her assistant, Becky Fulgoni (last years second place winner), sewing space assignment, Baby Lock sewing machine orientation and meet and measure our model.

Friday is the first show day, we recieve our secret challenge in the morning and then have cash to shop for our supplies on the American Sewing Expo floor. We get a lunch at 12:30 and 7pm we have to stop sewing and leave the building.

Saturday is time to work on the garment again, then at 3pm we get to final fit our models. 6pm is the Fashion Show and judging.

Sunday is our free day to enjoy the Expo and maybe some classes.

Supplies....
muslin, threads, zippers, assortment of interfacings,basic sewing supplies, sewing chair, drafting tools (including one book), and asssortment of embroidery stabilizers.

I've got lots of sewing supplies so I can find most in my stash, I hope I don't bring anything illegal as basic sewing supplies, I'm really gonna have to think about that one to make sure I don't forget anything. My chair is embarrasing! The wheels are all clogged and flat and don't roll and it has a smashed up pillow seat. The embroidery stabilizers? Frankly that part scares me, I'm not really an embroidery person.

I'm dying to know what the secret challenge will be! I'm also interested to see who the other contestants will be. I'm sure to be surrounded by a lot of talent. No matter what this will definately be a fun experience.

I'm a Contestant in The Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge!

2008-08-02T04:58:00.000-07:00

I'm so excited! I'm going to be a contestant at the 2nd annual Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, MI.

I entered my skirt, that started out here, because the rules called for something I had made in the last 2 yrs and I hadn't taken the time to make something new.

They are also going to keep my skirt for a display they are having. I'm guessing its the Reconstruction Zone where they will be doing a DIY on Jeans.

It is a 3 day event with an all day sewing session on Friday September 26th and the Fashion Show on Saturday at 5pm. I'm not worried about getting things finished on time, I'm just thinking about the creative side, part of the contest is to "make it your own". I'll be flipping thru my patternmaking books until then that's for sure!

I can't find any information about what the prizes are, but its sure to be a great experience!

Wish me luck!

Pattern Drafting

2008-07-28T09:05:00.000-07:00

I've learned most of my Pattern Drafting from books. I did take a Fashion Design course that included Pattern Drafting in 1997 from Oakland County Adult Education and found it useful. In fact, that is how I was introduced to the book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I'm sure there are other similar programs available.

I looked into a Fashion Design School, in Troy, MI, that advertises on the TV, but after going thru the process and not getting the answers I needed I decided not to go that route. I wasn't interested in a year of remedial math and english and I was hoping to place out of those courses based on my College education. I was told I could, but was given the run-around when it came to actually getting any information about a revised schedule. The tuition for the school would have equaled about 23,000, so it wasn't something I wanted to fool around about. I wanted definitive answers before I got completely involved and it wasn't given satisfactorily. A word of caution, read everything!!!! I was presented with a contract that I was told was non-binding, I read the entire thing, and I made them cross off, initial and make a copy for me, because there was a section that said I was responsible for the tuition EVEN IF I DECIDED NOT TO ATTEND. It could have been a problem, but because I read everything, and made the appropriate changes it wasn't.

After this experience, and an unwillingness to relocate, I decided, after the 23,000, a couple hundred on Pattern drafting books was nothing!

I picked up several Pattern Drafting and Draping books, Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking by Dorothy Moore, Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong, The Art of Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford and a old 1950 Applied Pattern Designing by Herbert Mayer. My FAVORITE purchase by far is Patternmaking Made Easy by Connie Amaden-Crawford. I also picked up a couple related books The Complete Book of Fashion Illustration by Sharon Tate and Mona Edwards (even though I'll never be able to draw) and Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff because I felt I would find them useful.

I get enjoyment from flipping thru the books and visualizing dart movement, I have found it useful when doing DIY projects, it has opened up my eyes as to what is possible. Darts on the neckline if it is accidently made too large and other possiblities I hadn't thought of before. I will definately purchase more Patternmaking Books in the future to learn more.

Sewing is really my skill, Pattern Drafting is time consuming for me. But it is really just a matter of pratice. I've been successful when I've put my mind to it and it is absolutely necessary when making garments to sell to the public.

How to find work as a Seamstress

2008-07-26T08:05:00.000-07:00

I find myself without any paid sewing work this week. This is not uncommon in July, but I usually just slow down, not stop completely. I have two people sending me work next week and I expect a large order from Florida in August, so it still moving, but it may be time to expand my clients again. This happens occasionally, people change their business or decide to stop doing what they are doing for whatever personal reasons. It is why it is important to have more than one contract, even if it is possible for one person to keep you busy full time (though not in my experience).

I have had referals from current customers, but mostly they want to keep me for themselves and don't give out my name. I have had a lot of referrals from people I no longer work for. Referals don't always work out. A lot of times it is just chit chat and the person who gets my name isn't really ready to start. Or they want to collaborate with me not hire me. Though I would consider a collaboration with the right person, I'm at a point in my life where I don't want to be a partner, I want to be a paid employee.

I started my search today on the internet. I put "seamstress michigan" into the search engine. I ended up filpping thru about 41 pages and getting a handful of places that I will send an email. I don't know how many will even respond, but its a start. You never know whose business has recently picked up or who has lost a seamstress.

I have also had luck in the past by going to an Art Fair or Show and inquiring in booths if they need any sewing help and/or dropping off a business card. The rejection rate is high, but if you are successful it can result in a long term relationship. The got the woman I work for in Virginia this way. She wasn't at the Show, but someone I talked to gave her my card. I've been working for her since 2001. She is one whose business is changing away from clothing and starting to focus more on accessories, because she has aquired several wholesale accounts over the last couple of years.

I also found a couple wesites that are worth checking regularly to see if they have a good fit for me:
Sewing Want Ads
Simply Hired
Fashion Jobs

You will have to try your own search in your area and see what comes up.

While working at a place insead of home isn't an option for me, it may be for you, especially if you are just starting out and need to inspire confidence. If I was in my 20's again, like I was when I was starting out, I'd even consider relocating, there are certainly a lot more opportunities in New York or California than in Michigan!

I went to a lot of interviews back then where they were not impressed with my youth or my experience (zip!). You may have to start out doing something that you don't like just to get the experience. I made a lot of swimsuits and little girls dance costumes, and I sure wasn't making much! I learned a lot though and it was all worthwhile.

I also have a website that needs updating, Production Seamstress, it does generate some interest.

Needles for the Bernina 950

2008-07-24T13:37:00.001-07:00

I recently received an email asking about which needles I use for the Bernina 950. Since it may be information others need, I decided to post the original email and my response here. Any knowledge anyone has to contribute about their experience with needles for the Bernina is welcome here!

Hi Diane,

I read your blog on Flickr. Can you help me with a question on needles for the 950. I have a 950 and have purchased the standard 287 WH needles by Bernina, but I decided to try the Cool Sew needles by CTS (they are supposed to allow higher speed without fraying the thread). They are cross referencing the 287 WH with a DBX257, 16X257, DBx1, 16X231, DBX1738, 1738, SY2270. I ordered some based on the chart and these needles end up being shorter than the 287 WH by what appears to be 1 mm. Have you used needles other than the 287 WH? If so, what size?

Thank you for your help!

Sincerely,

Name Withheld

Dear Name,

My Bernina needles have 287 WH on them, if I remember correctly, they are quite pricey. I have some Schmetz that say DBX1, 16X231, 287 WH and 1738 (A). The Schmetz's look to be a smidge shorter. I also have some superior Beka (made in germany)that say 16X257, 16X231,1738 and DBX1. I use the Beka's most with no ill effects, they look to be a smidge longer that the Berninas(I never held them next to each other before!). BUT, the schmetz's are a 12 the Bernina's are a 14 and the Beka's are a 16. Are the needles you are comparing all the same size? I have no idea if this is standard, just an observation.

I believe I got my Beka's at MJ Foley's, they are in MI like me and I can go pick up there, its been a while since I had to buy more, I'm not using the machine as often right now. You can also buy Organ 16X231 BALL POINT needles online.I used to sew in 8 to 10 hour stretches with the beka's so I'm sure they are good and will not damage the machine. I didn't use the Schmetz's as often because I did primarily sewing on felted wool. I don't remember any problems.....

I can also sew at max speed with the Bernina, my experience with any other thread besides gutermannn was to have the thread fray. I insist that my customers buy gutermann now. I didn't even think to blame the needles for the ,what I call, coring out (the thread got really thin and ended up as a snag/snarl at the needle eye).

You seem very on the ball (I never held the needles next to each other!), but I just wanted to add the the needle goes in off center. If you are having trouble with the thread shredding, check the manual to be sure you have it correctly off centered!.

Hope that helps!
Diane

Tutorial: Christine Jonson Pattern #107 Tie Back Top

2008-07-20T05:15:00.000-07:00

I'm going to go thru the instructions that came with the pattern, for the Tie Back Top #107, one at a time with you. Most will be accompanied by a picture of what I did at that step, and I'll add any comments I have about what I did that may need explaining or add to the instructions. I will assume that you have the pattern instructions so I only have to add to them and not retype them here.

Here is where I started.

Step 1: Basting, two rows.

Step 2: serged shoulder seams.

Steps 3 and 4: Sew ties, clip to the dot, serge finish seams. (I made a clip to let myself know where the dots were instead of tailors tacks.)

Step 5: I turned and presses, no pictures.

Step 6: This is the most difficult part, but don't worry, it is still not hard (Thank you, Christine!) just fussy! You have to make sure your sewing lines here meet the sewing lines you made when making the ties, that is key to having the front look neat and finished.

Match notches, adjust gathers to fit.

You must get the needle and stitches all the way to the previous sewing line.

Another pic, all the way to the previous sewing.

Check your work, looks good here!

I serge to clean it up after I finish the seam.

Step 7: Stitch betwen the dots, again it is important here to get the needle all the way to the previous stitching lines.

This is a picture of the drawing under step 8 (oops! before I serged it!).

Get in there!

Check your work. I single needled again and trimmed, instead of serging here.

Step 9 and 10: Side seams. How does your brain work? Christine's diagram is good. I put the top neatly on my dressform, mark what gets sewn together at the underarm seam, and go sit down and sew all 4 seams (right and left front and lining).

Step 11 and 12: Hem. Again how does your brain work? Christine's diagrams make sense to me, but when I'm sitting at the machine I do it a little differently. I straighten out the shirt, then reach between the layers at the underarm and pull the hem thru there (much like doing a lining on a jacket, but there are no sleeves). Sew around the hem and straighten it out back thru the arm. Sorry, no pic sewing the hem!

Step 13-15: Baste the armholes together, if you wish, sew sleeve underarm seams (my pictures didn't turn out, but pretty understandable!), and sew sleeve into armhole, matching notches. I sew with the sleeve on top, it helps me to manage the ease better.

Step 16: Double needle on the sleeve hem.

The finished product! My pictures don't do it justice, too cute!

Book Review: Life in the Little Black Dress, by Christine Jonson

2008-07-10T16:54:00.000-07:00

I've done a short review of The Little Black Dress on Pattern Review and I thought I'd add some more personal stuff here.

I worked as a little sales girl in Christine's Retail Store in Royal Oak, MI starting in 1995. The story about "Button Decisions" in the book brought back memories from that time. Christine would have Susan cut out the collection, and then it would be sent to the sew-ers (I wasn't allowed to sew way back then!). One woman would do the serging and we (me and or Susan or Christine) would have to press up hems and press/shrink the fabric and then one or more sew-ers would finish the hems and topstitching. After everything was finished and pressed and hung on hangers Christine would pull out the buttons. It was a big production and everything had to have the perfect buttons. I think many of Christine's customers enjoyed the attention to the buttons as much as the fit of the garments.

I also remember the joy Christine takes in choosing beautiful fabrics, that much hasn't changed!

Much of what I do in sewing is from watching and listening to Christine, I think I learned to really sew from her Patterns. I love the easy way her patterns go together and especially the fit of the armholes. I often find myself adjusting other patterns to make them easier or more friendly, eliminating facings, pins, serging darts,etc.

The article "Clip Those Threads" actually gave me a chuckle, it is one of my bad habits to leave some threads hanging, it is actually the thing that I get the most comments about! I do try to be neat, but I chronically leave the threads at the start of hem seams. I think I do end up getting them, unless I'm on a tight deadline and working really fast. People do end up not complaining after a while, so either I get better or they give up!

I also love Christine's take on "The Little Black Dress" and how it relates to sewing "...it signifies all the good things about clothes. If you have the perfect little black dress in your closet, life is good. It is something you can depend on. You can be in your comfort zone the second you slip that dress on. It's a state of mind."

All and all I really enjoyed the book, if you are looking for some fun informative reading about sewing I highly recommend it!

Do I really need to have a plan?

2008-06-22T05:40:00.000-07:00

Occasionally I am finished with all my contract sewing work and I still feel like sewing. But, I don't feel like being creative. So... Do I have to have a plan?

I was feeling rather uninspired and didn't want to make any plans, so I looked at my pile of jeans and just started to play with it a little. Nothing I haven't done before, just strips.

I love the way they look when they are finished, I did 3 separate pieces, from 5 pair of jeans.

Now when I'm ready to make something I'll have the hard work done and I can just work on the style of the finished product. These are smaller pieces, so I'm thinking some more totes/handbags for etsy....

Book Review: Julie Parker's "All About...."

2008-06-21T07:00:00.000-07:00

I discovered these books quite a few years ago at a Sewing Expo. They are a wonderful resource for those of us who are fabric challenged, buy from clearance racks or thrift unlabeled textiles. There is no substitute for actually feeling a fabric in your hands!

There are three Volumes in the Fabric Reference Series by Julie Parker:

All About Silk

All About Cotton

All About Wool

The best part by far is the swatch of fabrics included. Each description is accompanied by the corresponding fabric. A nice sized 2 1/2 X 4 inches. I find no substitute for seeing and feeling each fabric to compare what I have and help to accurately indentify each piece.

A sample of an entry goes something like this:
-Name of the fabric (My sample page is Flannel)
-Description of fabric
-Swatch on page
-Explaination of how "brushed cotton" is created
-Short "how to use"
-Description of several other similar related fabrics
Example:A page on Flannel includes a short description of Canton flannel, diaper flannel, flannelette, and outing flannel
-Sewing rating
-Suggested fit
-Suggested styles
-What to expect
-Cost per yard
-Wearability
-Suggested care
-Where to find
-Box with additional info
Example:This page on flannel has info on Flame retardant finishes

I am only fortunate enough to own the first two in the series All about Silk and All about Cotton. I will pick up the third someday, and I am looking forward to seeing all the fabrics and reading the pages to build my knowledge of fabrics and textiles.

The books can also be found on ebay under the publishers I.D. Rain City Publishing.

Christine's Fishin' Hat

2008-04-30T17:02:00.000-07:00

Christine asked for a hat like the one I have been wearing, mine is pretty goofy, but I'm getting known for them soooo...

The hat is made from a Kwik Sew pattern #2236 view B. And almost one old pair of blue jeans. I had to be creative to get the brim pieces out of the jeans, all but one of the hat panels was on the straight of grain. I didn't use a whole pair of jeans, but I used all I had left of this pair.

I made mine about 10 years ago when I knew much less about sewing than I know now and there were things I didn't really like about it, so I fixed it for Christine's.

The pattern asks you to sew all the pieces together and then finish with seam binding. Here is a pic of my old hat:

I've never liked this, so this time I left a part of the panel open on the inside to turn everything thru:

My new hat inside looks like this:

I'm very pleased with the result.

Finished side view:

Finished front view:

The hat is cute, unfortunately I can't sell this particular style hat because it is made from a copyrighted pattern. I do think that the top of the hat is a little poofy, so if I did make a pattern of my own I would fix that. I think the hardest part will be to get the brim with the correct curve. I'll have to go to the mall and look at some hats see if I can't figure it all out and draft one myself!

Vintage Windbreaker Repair

2008-04-30T16:45:00.001-07:00

Outside Repair
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I have this beautiful vintage windbreaker up on etsy.

When I was getting the measurements, I discovered that the side seam stitching was unraveling.

The jacket was sewn with a serger and chain stitch, if the chain stitch gets dinked at all the whole thing comes out. I don't know what caused the problem, but I went all the way down the side twice to fix the problem. And just because I'm not sure what caused the problem initially, I did the other side for safe keeping.

My thread *is* orange, but doesn't match the jacket. The repair is neat though and doesn't show on the outside.

Busy-Busy

2008-04-18T02:37:00.000-07:00

Things have been pretty busy around here. I made 19 more garments for Christine on top of my regular stuff and I'm working hard to straighten things up. I'm going to have to write more about Christine's patterns, she is doing some really great stuff and I really learned a lot.

I'm in the process of moving my workspace from the basement to the upstairs. This is an undertaking because the upstairs has been used as storage space. I'm very suprised at how much I've collected over the years. I'm definately a pack rat.

I've been working hard at purging things, but I've still got to sort thru a bunch of sewing supplies. I'm trying to convince myself to sell some of these wonderful things in my ecrater store and on etsy. I do have to, though, there is just too much right now for me to use in the near future.

I have also cleared out a bunch of clothing that I was saving for reconstruction or refashioning. That was hard but necessary to move the workspace, I can get more later when I'm ready. I have saved all the jeans though! I have enough to keep me busy for quite a while.

I'm looking forward to having the workspace upstairs, I've been in the basement for 10 years and I'm tired of it. It is nice and cool in the summer, but I'm ready to make that sacrafice (besides there is air conditioning!) in order to have sunshine in my life!

Invisible Zippers in Sew News Magazine

2008-02-15T14:12:00.001-08:00

Thank You Rosebud!
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I've talked several times about my great class at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan last year. I haven't been able to give specific details about the things I have learned because obviously I didn't invent the techniques myself.

This most recent Sew News Magazine, March 2008, features Rosebud and a detailed How-To of Islander Sewing Systems Invisible Zipper Insertion on page 17. She goes thru Hand control, Preparation and Insertion, all the way to adding a Facing or a Lining.

Its a great way to get an introduction to the technique without spending the big bucks for the Easy Zippers! DVD by Janet Pray and Rosebud, though I think I should splurge. I learned 3 zippers techniques in my class, invisible, lapped and a standard, but I know that there are a few more in the DVD I could use some tips on!

The last Threads Magazine, January 2008, also featured Rosebud on pg. 65. They did the Lapped Zipper in Threads. Its another great presentation worth a look and learn.

So, I went to an Estate Sale.

2008-02-12T06:30:00.001-08:00

Child Dressform
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I'm not supposed to be going to Estate sales because I'm supposed to be decluttering here. BUT, my cousin called and told me that it had Dressforms! I need (want) another woman's dressform, I like to see the projects I'm working on hanging on them. And I always seem to have one less than I need.

This estate sale did not have a woman's form, but it did have this child's form. I didn't have a child's form!! So, now I do.... Hurray!

I also bought 6 vintage shirts to sell on another venue. Sigh, an addict!

I won Third Place!

2008-02-05T16:05:00.000-08:00

Hurray! My stuff I sent to the red thread studio in Virginia won Third place!

My Entries for the Project Runway Style Challenge at the red thread studio!

2008-01-28T05:44:00.000-08:00

Last Wednesday I sent out 3 garments, my $5.00 entry fee and return shipping for the Project Runway Style Challenge at the red thread studio in Virginia.

Angelia will have pictures of all the entries at her blog.

I sent my favorite skirt,made from 4 pair of blue jeans. I think she'll travel the world!

A skirt made from 1 pair of jeans.

And a newly reconstructed sweater.

I can't wait to see how it all turns out....

Denim Refashioning and Project Runway

2008-01-25T06:59:00.001-08:00

Side View Chevron Skirt
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

Now I know I'm not the first, and I also understand I won't be the last, but I'm a little disappointed that I didn't get more of my ideas done before they did the denim stuff on Project Runway! One thing I notice is that they seemed to be matching the denim and part of the fun for me is to use the different colors. I've only seen the show a couple of times, because we don't have Bravo, but I've been thinking of renting or buying some of the previous seasons.

A Yahoo! Group I read has been taking about the shows, thats how I know about the recent developments. I'm sure that now there will be more people inspired by the shows great designs and I'll not be alone in my crazy pastime of cutting apart jeans! I just made a big pile to work on too! I'll have to get a pic on Flickr.

I just bought a pattern to try out yesterday. Its not everything that I've been thinking of, but I've been burning to make a jacket out of the recycled denim and procrastinating because of the pattern work involved in making my own design. So, I purchased Butterick B0458 by Connie Crawford. I will only have to make the sleeve a two piece to make it fit on the jeans. Its a nice little Fitted Jacket and I can try out her patternmaking style. I do have her book Patternmaking for Fashion Design to make my own patterns. Connie is very well respected by everyone that I have ever heard mention her name.

Bernina 950 Industrial Sewing Machine Review

2008-01-01T17:36:00.001-08:00

Bernina 950 Industrial Sewing Machine
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I purchased my Industrial Bernina 950 Professional Zigzag Flatbed Sewing Machine, 21 Stitch, 5mm, Buttonhole, Knee Lift, Drop Feed, Power Stand,machine in 2001. I don't remember the exact price, but I want to say I paid right around $1,700. I managed to get my local Bernina Dealer to get it for me for the price I would have had to pay to get it thru the mail from a catalogue. I used it daily for 3 or 4 years with no major problems. I was doing contract sewing that required me to straight stitch and then zig zag every seam, like a false flat felled seam. I was using the buttonhole on the jackets I was making at that time too.

This is considered a craft machine because it has decorative stitches and a built in buttonhole. I know that some people don't like it because it has plastic gears inside.

It is not as fast as a regular Industrial Machine and I don't use it as often right now because its slower than my Industrial straight stitch Pfaff.

I have used it recently to do a satin stitch on some appliqued jeans.

A person I did Contract Sewing for had one, so that was how I was introduced to it. When I was waiting for my work to be finished, or if there was something she needed done right away before I went home for a week, I used hers. I got to the point in my sewing that I *needed* a faster machine. The first time I did a job on it, I finished so fast I was truly stunned.

Our machines both ended up with the same problem. The hand dial(I'm bad at names for stuff, its how you move the needle up and down) has a loosener for winding the bobbin, that wears out very quickly. I never saw hers work and mine wore out before the first year was thru. When I want to wind bobbins I have to take the bobbin case out, because I can't keep the needle from going up and down. This wasn't really a big deal when I sewed for her because we only used 2 or 3 thread colors and I could wind all the bobbins at once. You *can* wind a bobbin while you are sewing. I really don't even think about it, but it is an issue with the machine since we both had it happen. Mine was fixed once, but I've given up, I won't even ask to have it fixed again.

Overall, I really love the machine, I wish I had more to do on it. It is smooth and sturdy and comes with a bunch of feet (including an applique and zipper foot).

Bobbins are expensive, I think I had to pay 2.25 each.
Bernina Tacsew 950 Genuine Original Propreitory Solid Metal Empty Bobbins with No Extra Holes On Either Side, Part # 330-026-030 - Pack of 10

Banners, Etsy Forums and a Contest

2007-12-23T05:40:00.000-08:00

Its easy to spend too much time on the Etsy Forums. I am guilty of it myself. But I do often find out about useful services and links this way. I'd never spend enough time browsing the internet myself and frankly wouldn't even know that they exist. Like blog patrol, for example, its a service that gives you free blog stats. I can check it and find out how many people visit my site in a given day and if they used a search engine, I can see which search words they used.

This week while browsing threads about blogs and blogging, the topic of banners came up. This Etsy sellers blog, little brown bird was complimented for her great banner. I've been wanting to learn to make my own banners, so I asked what program she used. She told me about Art Explosion Publisher Pro . I looked it up on the internet, showed it to my husband (and told him I needed to buy it) and he tells me we already have it! He goes upstairs and brings it down. How is that for instant gratification? Turns out he bought Photo Explosion for me about 6 months ago and I made him take it back off the computer because I had trouble with how it took over my picture editing. Well this time I'm ready to learn about it and I've already been experimenting with banners in the new storefront I'm planning next year for selling all kinds of patterns.

Finally, in the forums again, I learned about a Project Runway Inspired Contest. The deadline for intent to participate is January 14th so I do need to make a decision soon. I would really like to try it. I could do some more denim refashioning, I know I'll enjoy it!

Sewing for Christine Jonson Again!

2007-11-29T08:25:00.001-08:00

Christine Jonson
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I'm sure I've mentioned that I have worked for Christine Jonson. It all started, back in 1995, before she decided to do her pattern line. I did do some shows with her at the beginning of the pattern company, but I moved farther North and focused on sewing, while she concentrated on developing the Pattern Company and didn't have work for me.

Lucky for me, she has a show coming up and not enough time to do the sewing she needs done for it! I am having a great time sewing all of these beautiful fabrics into garments.

Most of the patterns I'm working on are new to me. Either she didn't do them at the store when I was a part of it, or they are brand new inventions altogether.

I've got to get these finished in a reasonable amount of time, but I plan to go over each of the patterns I'll be making and show off the finished garments.

So far I've made the Shirred Top #424(a new one for me), a line dress with a slash #930, Basewear II Skirt #1025, Swirl Skirt #419 and 2 one seam wraps #1117 ( both also new).

The only thing I'm sorry I won't be able to show you is how wonderful these fabrics are to work with.

NYC Nolita Market is a Bust!

2007-11-24T12:59:00.001-08:00

Back from vacation
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

But not because my clothing ever made it there! This whole thing totally fell apart right after I sent the stuff out, and I had to wait 2 1/2 months to get everything back.

Everything is back from a vacation in NY, fortunately perfect, just needs a fresh press and a hanger.

My things *were* taken to several stores in NYC.

On a positive note, the feedback I received was useful (and positive!), but the whole experience was a major irritation.

I learned the importance of knowing your target market. NYers are smaller (must be all that walking), and its important to have available what is appropriate for the current season.

I got positive feedback on my designs, refashions and ideas, just not exactly right for the season or the sizes.

Though, in my defense, it all happened very fast and I was under the impression that the stuff I hurried out (all inventory) on the 11th was going to be at the market on the 16th, so there wasn't much time for creating. Or picking and choosing. She saw what I had available and told me she wanted to give it a try at the market.

I find it a little funny actually because I was told there was too much color for fall, I just sorta fly by the seat of my pants right now, I don't have a line or a plan, and I am such a dull dresser!

This was all arranged by a mutual friend, I've never met the NYer. I understand a face to face is not always possible, but I will make things go slower next time. My patience was thoroughly snapped by this person. I would not consider doing business with her again even with the awareness I now have about the potential market in NYC.

What not to do if you enter into a business relationship:
-Do not have any contact with the person with whom you are doing business for 2 months, even though you have 2 phone numbers and 2 email addresses, and even if you didn't write them down they have been sent to you via email just in case you lost them.
-Make lame excuses about being busy when you finally do call (2 months later) because you are the only one who is busy.
-Do not let the person with whom you are doing business know when you send a package in the mail.

In my mind 2 weeks would have been rude, and the reason of being busy would have been irritating, but could have been excused. Waiting 2 months, its crazy! I didn't even care at that point, I knew I wasn't doing business again, I was just trying to be nice long enough to get everything back undamaged.

I'm mostly mad about the lack of email contact. If you are swamped you should still be able to find a couple minutes to honor your commitments via email.

I almost want to take it to Nolita Market myself! I would have never found out about it, except for this experience, and who know it could be fun!

Inspiration Books

2007-11-19T03:44:00.001-08:00

Inspiration Books
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

An invitation to My Inspiration Book on Flickr has got me thinking, "What inspires me?".

I knew I had inspiration books. So I dug them out this morning. The picture is of the two I found. The one on top was a gift about 12 years ago from an artist friend I worked with many years ago (I love, love, love this "Dressmaker" series that she did) and the second was carefully selected from the discount table at Borders Books. Why can I remember it so clearly? I really was suprised to find them empty. I *know* I wrote in one at one time. I wonder where it is!

I am inspired by so many things. Great sewing books, Pattern making books, vintage patterns, clothes I see others wearing and everything I've ever sewn for someone else. I'm even inspired by the Inspiration books I see in the Flickr group! There are so many places to find inspiration on the internet, blogs, Flickr, etsy, my mind starts to boil just *thinking* about all the possibilities!

I get an idea in my head, sometimes it sticks around and gets better form, other times it fades. My biggest frustration with the inspiration books is my lack of ability to give it proper translation in writing. I have terrible penmanship, and can't draw to save my life! I've often said, "I can sew a straight line, but I can't draw one."

This skirt is an example of something I just couldn't get out of my head, It turned out so well I've got another one living in my head just busting to get out. This sweater is a not so well translated experiment, but the project deserves more exploration.

A couple more thoughts...

2007-10-15T05:40:00.000-07:00

About the American Sewing Expo in Novi. There were some cool trims, many crystals and such for embellishments. I started out writing things down, but I *thought* I could depend on my memory. Next time I'll do better! No wonder they say eyewitness acounts are some of the worst records!

I'm always telling myself that I need to get more organized, and the problem remains. I do extremely well when I'm working on someone elses things. Maybe it is because of the accountability.

My latest plot is to get one piece of vintage clothing up on etsy a day. I've GOT to clean that stuff out. OK, we all know I'll buy more, but it has to get cleared out first. Anybody want to hold me to it?

I have so many ideas for creating things too, I've got to set aside time for that. And if I don't start using some things, Its time to pass them on to someone who might use them.(That sounds like lip service to me,lol!)

I've also got a list started for stuff to write about on the blog here. Some tutorials, reviews (books, notions,products),diy's and such.

And if you haven't yet heard of him, check out Ron Paul for President. I've read some good things about him and he is worth looking into further.

American Sewing Expo Review, Novi,MI 2007

2007-10-11T06:10:00.000-07:00

I did make it to the Sewing Expo for a couple of hours on Sunday afternoon. I haven't been there for the last two years so I am glad I made the effort.

It was my first time at the Rock Financial Showplace, it is an impressive looking building. It was nice to have classrooms instead of tents for the classes and workshops.

I'm not sure if it was my imagination, but the show seemed smaller this year. I did see a post on Pattern Review that said it had 150 vendors, but I don't have a point of reference to compare with previous years.

The show is a great place to compare home sewing machines if you are in the market for one. All the brand names were represented Bernina, Singer, Pfaff, Viking, etc. You name it, I hear that there are always good deals on machines too!

Lots of quilting stuff, not really my thing, but very pretty to look at the beautifully arranged fabrics.

It seemed that there were fewer of the Independant Pattern Companies than I remember, but there were also some that I didn't recognize. It is a good place to take a look at the designs made up into garments. It can be difficult to picture some of the styles from the pattern envelope drawings.

Threads and Sew News Magazines were there. I entered the Threads drawing, I wanted a copy of The Subversive Seamster, but alas, it was not to be!

There were some beautiful garment fabrics, as always Haberman Fabrics and The Sewing Workshop, along with many others I didn't take specific note of. One had Men's silk tie fabric by the yard! Very beautiful. I hadn't noticed Fabrications before, I took their card. I also found an Upholstery place, V Trading, in Grand Blanc that sells $5 per yard, the show special was $2.50! I picked up a couple yards for making bags.

I found a great source for zippers, The Zipper Lady. About a million styles and lengths and colors, if I ever get around to recovering stuff.

There was some goofy stuff, nail techs, some kind of drying sheets and pet hair remover.

I made a Bear for the Kuddles for Kids.

There were quilt and dress displays.

I regret that I wasn't able to make it to the Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge doings, I did see some of the finished garments. I'm hoping there is a published review somewhere. I wonder if everyone was able to finish in the allotted time, how it all looked when they were busy working and if, as I suspect, the winner won, mainly because they embellished the designs.

I found something that I want want want, Sew-Brite The Absolute Ultimate cutting craft table! I love all the drawers and stuff, I've already taken to arranging projects and ideas in plastic dish pans from the dollar store. Just look at all the drawers!

I also purchased the Patternmaking Made Easy book, by Connie Amaden-Crawford from the Fashion Patterns by Coni booth.

My only complaint was the the clubs, American Sewing Guild and Michigan Bishop Sewing Council, seemed shoved together in the back.

If you are into sewing as a hobby or just looking for ideas, I think the show is worth a look. It is not a show for wholesale sources, but it can be fun taking a look around and seeing what is available in the home sew*ers market.

Recycled Denim Bag

2007-10-11T05:58:00.001-07:00

Recycled Denim Bag
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I used some of the leftovers from my Chevron Denim Skirt and made this great shoulder bag.

This is the style of bag that I carry and is my current favorite.

I love the way it turned out, isn't it just great when something *finally* turns out the way you planned?!

The bag is available on etsy.

American Sewing Expo Workshop Review 2007

2007-09-30T05:20:00.000-07:00

This Thursday I took the "Industrial Shortcuts and Easy Zippers Combined!"at the American Sewing Expo, in Rock Financial Showplace, Novi, Michigan.

I throughly enjoyed myself. I forgot to count the people in the class, but I'm gonna guess 18. All skill levels were represented, with some people finishing quickly and others having trouble getting each task done in the allotted time. There was one person younger than me and the rest older, not suprising, I think there are a lot more people my age sewing, but life keeps them away from the classes. All women, also expected.

I got a lot more than I expected out of the class, and probally different things than I would had I taken the class as a beginner.

Most of the class was about Industrial Sewing Techniques from Islander Sewing Systems. We watched a bit of the Margaret Islander videos. I met Margaret once, too. I doubt she would remember, but I found her very likable. Her videos showcase her excellent sewing skills as well as her cheery nature and sense of humor.

The instructor, Rosebud, is a skilled sewing machine operator and a patient and pleasant instructor. Rosebud and Janet Pray have created a "Easy Zippers" video, I didn't ask if there is a book to go along with it. We also watched part of this video during the class, I really needed the multiple showcasing of the techniques. I always say that I need to be told twice. The video has Janet introducing each technique with useful information and Rosebud operating the sewing machine. I did find some of the banter between them to be scripted and humorous (though not meant to be), but the sewing is flawless and worth the watch.

I was definately on the right track with the zipper insertion. That whole part of the class was new to me. I'm looking forward to incorporating the new techniques in my sewing. I had no idea that an invisible was soooo easy!!I've never taken any classes besides a quilting class 10 years ago at a Hancocks Fabric Store. Most of my instruction has come from books and there is no substitute for *seeing* something done!

Like I said I enjoyed the class very much. It was all day, 9 to 5, with a 1 hour lunch. I knew I would have some waiting, so I set myself up to be patient. When we were cleaning up Rosebud asked me what I do, I told her that I work for people who sell at art fairs, she said "I thought you caught on fast". That made me feel great! I can't wait to take another one next year. I already have my sights on the Patternmaking Class by Connie Amaden-Crawford.

I plan to take another ride to the Expo Center today, Sunday, to take a look at the vendors and the results of the Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge. I'll let you know what I think of the show!

Zipper Tutorial

2007-09-26T10:18:00.000-07:00

Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

I mentioned earlier that I put in a zipper without basting or pinning. I decided to give it another try and post it here before my class tomorrow. I'm still very interested in what they will suggest.

First picture shows the unsewn seam and zipper.

I line it up and sew the first side.

Take a look at the first side.

Flip it over and measure for the other side.

Now the two sides are sewn.

I make sure the sides meet up and I sew along the seam line to just past the botton of the zipper.

I flip it over and start to do some pressing.

The outside of the skirt is ready to sew, in the picture it isn't perfect. I do my *best* work *at* the sewing machine.

I switch the zipper foot for the topstitching. Right to left. Ahhh! the joys of industrial machines!

I'm pleased with the result and the finished product!

I'm Taking a Class

2007-09-20T06:23:00.000-07:00

At the American Sewing Expo, at Rock Financial Showplace, Novi, Michigan. Its called "Industrial Shortcuts and Easy Zippers Combined!".

Though I am mostly taking it for the zippers I'm sure I will learn something that I forgot or haven't done correctly in the Industrial Shortcuts segment.

I've actually done sewing for Janet Pray and her clothing company Jan`et. I usually got a 15 or 20 minute lesson on the techniques and did it as well as I remembered. It was most important that I made the garments successfully. I'm sure its been moved around in my head since several years have passed, so I'm interested to see how it really SHOULD be done.

I'm mostly interested in the zipper portion, I haven't done much in the way of zippers in my Contract Production Sewing, and I've never had a lesson. I like zippers better than elastic waistband on skirts and I'd like a few pointers even though I've done quite a few zippers successfully over the years.

Basting and pressing open and pinning just isn't for me. I recently put a zipper in with the side seams unsewn and then did the seams around it. I was quite proud. I should have documented it here, but it is difficult to stop and take pictures when I'm on a roll!

The teacher, Rosebud, who I only remember as the woman who hand wound her bobbin so she could do a double needle on one of Christine Jonson's Patterns, was a zipper setter, so it should be a good class.

My Skirt has been blogged!

2007-09-18T04:50:00.001-07:00

Reconstructed Bias Denim Skirt-Chevron
Originally uploaded by Diane Slade Inc

My recycled denim skirt that I'm so proud of was featured in a couple of blog posts by Crafter by Night. I can't tell you how exciting it is for me to have this recognition. Even though there WERE only 7 skirts on Mindt at the time. ;D

I found the Posts when I googled myself "Diane Slade Inc".

Here are the posts here and here. Miriam found it when she created an entirely indie outfit from finds on Mintd.

I have taken the skirt off of Mintd and sent it to NY with a bunch of other things. A friend of a friend is planning to take them to shops in NY and sell them. I'm anxiously awaiting the results of this new endeavor. Wish me luck!

Update NYC

2007-09-14T13:45:00.000-07:00

I have just learned that my clothing will not be at the Market this weekend, but they have arrived safely in New York. We may go to the Market in the near future.
I'll keep everyone posted!

Nolita Market NYC

2007-09-12T07:12:00.000-07:00

I have a bunch of things that I have made going to Nolita Market in NYC this weekend (Sept. 15th or 16th, 2007). I'm very excited to see how things turn out.

I am definately having trouble figuring out this whole Flickr thing! So you can see the things at http://flickr.com/photos/dianesladeinc/ or click on the links below!

Interfacing

2007-09-12T05:31:00.000-07:00

I am reminded, as I work on a project, that it is oh so important to have the right kind of interfacing in a project. The interfacing I chose is much to heavy for the fabric I'm using and I fear that I have ruined the jacket. This was an experiment, hence the grabbing and using of the nearest interfacing, but it is a pain to have to analyze an element that i wan't looking into!

The purpose of interfacing is to give a design element more body. The purpose is not to change the fabric into something else. A lightweight fabric calls for a lightweight interfacing. Adding an interfacing that is too heavy will only compromise the quality of the fabric that you enjoyed before you began.

So now I'm back to the drawing board!!

Elastic Waistband

2007-08-25T18:49:00.000-07:00

I'm afraid that the amount of pictures makes it very long to download, please let me know. Also feel free to ask questions, as always when I do things over and over its easy to forget important information! Click on any picture to enlarge for a better view!

I stitch with the wrong side up when I'm using the straight stitch machine.

As often as I can get away with, this is how I do an elastic waistband. I learned from Christine Jonson. I also used her Wide Leg Pant Pattern, because I'm very familiar with it and I won't be selling the finished product. I made myself some jammie pants for this winter.

I show a little of the cutting process, I have cut out my pattern in a size 10. Alas, my behind has grown so I'm adding what looks right. Measure? Nah, I know approximately what I need. I made one pair out of flannel. I've had this forever and finally its becoming something useful. And the other pair is a grey poly cotton waffel knit, my favorite.

I always add 4 inches to the length, I have long legs. I also took the top of the waistband down an inch or so (I cut my pattern I can't remember exactly what I did) because I like my pants to fit well below my natural waist. I suppose I will continue to do so, long after waistlines go back up again, its a matter of personal comfort.

I put the pants together with the serger according to the instructions. If you don't have a serger use your favored method, though I recommend a stretch stitch on a knit. Inseams first, then crotch seams. I only use one pin where the two seams meet.

Now the elastic. I cut mine about 28"ish, I'm pretty sure the pattern includes a measurement. I just haven't looked in so long.

I butt the two pieces together and sew a lot to make sure it won't come undone, ever. I can hear Christine in my head telling me to make sure it is stitched well.

Mark off the quarters, on the elastic and the pants.

Under the needle. Needle down before I stretch.

Holding my marked points together, I stretch the elastic to the length of the fabric.

I do this all the way around.

Now to finish. I put a bit of lace at the center back to mark it. Same concept except now the fabric is folded over to cover the elastic. I pull the fabric over the elastic taut to make it look neat.

I did it once on the straight needle and once on the serger (video) to let you decide based on equipment and confidence level.

Please look below at the video to see how I put the elastic in at the serger.
Fabric and Elastic ready to go.

Presser foot down, needle down before I stretch the elastic.

This first video is starting and only 8 seconds we forgot to clear the camera.

This second video is 30 seconds and starts where the other leaves off, but not all the way to finish, I just cross the original line of stitching and drive off. I clip close to the waistband, it is secure.

I also did a double needle on the grey knit because I like to have a stretch stitch on the knit. I loosen my bobbin tension, about a 1/4 turn. The stitch should not bunch up, it should look like railroad tracks on the front and a zig zag stitch on the back (again I hear Christine's voice!).

When I sew with the double needle I have the right side of the fabric up. I'm feeling the elastic with my fingers. Needle down.

Stretched and ready to sew, my thumb now marks the end of the elastic for me. I sew just inside the elastic.

Done! Its a little off. Its hard to sew with someone standing next to you! And I couldn't put my head as close as I usually do, it was blocking the view! Not to worry, they work great.

Vintage Full Skirt Repair

2007-08-24T10:43:00.001-07:00

Click on pics for a better view.

I picked up this great vintage full skirt. It is unique because the waist is so big. I knew it was going to need a little TLC, but not to worry, sewing is my speciality!

I opened up the waistband and the zipper. I put a piece of interfacing behind the rip and stitched it down a couple of times. Then I redid the zipper and waistband.

The finished product! A neat repair. I've got the skirt on Etsy!

Reconfigured

2007-08-09T09:41:00.000-07:00

I had to got to a wedding, I procrastinated on what I was going to wear, till the night before, as usual...

I knew by this time with not even a plan, I wasn't going to be fashionable, but due to a larger butt than normal, I REALLY didn't have anything to wear.

I'm always picking up things secondhand, mostly because I buy vintage to sell on various online venues. And because I like textiles and I'm cheap....

So I dove into the pile and came up with this. Sorry for the poor picture. I was in a hurry. The pics get better because it was working and I started to hurry less. And for a better view of any of the pics please click to open in a new window.

	I like the color, grey, I'm boring. I like the fabric, its polyester but feels like washed charmeuse. But I hate one piece dresses, they never fit at the waist, and this one was particularly uncomfortable because it was made for someone with bird arms and cut into me at the underarms. It has a jacket (or shirt) so I, in this late hour of need, decided to make it into a skirt.

First it should be noted that this will only work for someone who is relatively straight figured (like me), no hourglasses will be fitted here. But you can take a look anyway, it might inspire you!

	While I was looking in the mirror I tugged up the hem a little to see where I could have the skirt fit and be past the zipper, no playing with zippers! You can see my marks were a little off each other but I feel more confidant with what my right hand marks so I use that mark, I guess the other side is for amusement purposes...

	I lay it out on the table to even up my two sides and to measure where I'll be cutting. I added about 1 1/2" above the pins for the waist band foldover.

	This is how long it will be, remember I'm in a hurry! You can be more exact.

	My chalk line.

	Cut and serged.

	Normally I would just serge the elastic in. (Pinned at quarters) This time I wasn't sure how it would turn out so I wanted less picking if the need should arise.

	Another view of elastic going in.

	Elastic turned and stitched down again.

	And since I pulled the skirt up to adjust fit I had to shorten the slit.

	Another view of the slit.

I know I have left out pertinent information! Please ask questions I'll clarify. I understand how pattern companies have trouble with instructions. Once I do things so many times it is difficult to point out every step. Hail to the good teachers...

I really wanted to get another post up. Its been a month since I posted here. This wedding was also June 6th so this is late going up too. I will show you how the skirt turned out, but I want to clean it first, I managed to get ranch dressing on the front of it!

Skirt!

2007-07-05T04:11:00.000-07:00

I love it! It turned out fabulous. I've got it on Mintd.

Why Oh Why...

2007-06-28T10:51:00.001-07:00

Do I always want to use recycled denim jeans? Everytime I think about doing something original it starts with cutting up jeans and sewing them back together.

Here is what I've been working on:

I used 4 pair of women's jeans size 4 to 10 and ended up with approximately 29" wide and about 2 yards.

I'm making a skirt.... I'll post with the finished product.

Dress Form Makeover

2007-06-11T18:57:00.001-07:00

I have a Dress Form, we'll call her Helen. She has been with me since the beginning. I got her at a Flea Market and she has her issues, but we've been thru a lot together. She has always resisted a good cleaning, and since I want to do some attractive listing on Etsy, I decided to spruce her up a little!

Here she is *before*.

I got a piece of light yellow cotton/poly knit out of my monstrous fabric stash and decided to get to work. Why this piece of fabric? It was stretchy, and close to the top and I wasn't in the mood to spend all day looking for something *perfect*. I think it turned out to be a wonderful choice.

I threw that piece of fabric around her, smoothed and started to pin, Helen needs her neck covered too.

Then I cut around the pins- thats probally about 5/8"-3/4", I left the fabric around the armholes long because I wasn't sure what I was doing with it yet.

Folded to one side on the inside, pinned and sewing. I liked using the curved needle. Some extra smoothing and stretching was necessary.

Here she is! I think she turned out great. I just tucked in the 'arms' I'll deal with it another day.

Choosing a Sewing Pattern

2007-06-08T07:42:00.000-07:00

Several times I have been looking at patterns or shopping at Joann's or Handcock Fabric stores and seen someone picking out a pattern and fabric. The lack of imagination sometimes scares me. Some people can't see beyond the fabric choice on the pattern envelope. I have actually seen people buying the fabric that most closely resembles the one in the design on the envelope!

It is hard to be creative, I definately struggle with it. My experience viewing others creativity has definately helped me to grow. But I don't think I ever assumed that a pattern had to be made in the Fabric shown on the envelope.

Many patterns aren't as different as the pattern companies would lead you to believe, either. A elastic waist skirt is an elastic waist skirt. Don't get me wrong all patterns are not created equal! If you find a waist and hip that fits the way you like it, don't abandon it, be open to changing all that is below it. Changing a straight skirt to an A-line or adding ruffles isn't as difficult as you might think.

Keep your mind open, I'll try to get some of these things posted with pictures soon. Sort of a tutorial of sorts. Ahhhhhh, but we're gonna have to talk about my sewing books first! You can't venture into my wondeful world of sewing without a well stocked sewing book library. (OK so you can, but don't tell anyone!)

Sewing Over Pins Again!

2007-05-29T05:33:00.000-07:00

I hate when someone says "DON'T SEW OVER PINS" because I do it. They act like the machine will self distruct or something.

In the recent June/July 2007 Sew News magazine, however, is the most rational explaination of why you shouldn't sew over pins I have ever read. On page 18 is a column by Sandra Betzina, Sewing Solutions, and she writes "Don't sew over pins except when cross pinning to avoid shifting joints. Sewing over pins can cause a drag on the bobbin, which weakens the seam. Sewing over pins can also dull or bend the needle".

I always do the cross pinning and sewing over and I believe it causes undue frustration to worry so much about pulling them out just in the nick of time. But she also points out, without all the doom and gloom, that it can bend or break the needle as well as drag on the bobbin.

I almost didn't finish reading the column when I read the "don't sew over pins" part, but I'm glad I did. I appreciate a rational approach to a familiar subject.

I actually met Sandra Betzina once, sort of. I was working in Christine's booth at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, MI. She came to the booth looking for Christine and found only me, since Christine was off somewhere schmoosing or lunching. Sandra is an extremely charismatic person. I'm a little socially inept anyway, but she rushed in and shook my hand, said some nice things about Christine, and buzzed off leaving me a little spellbound.

I doubt I'll ever register in her memory, but I'll never forget that moment.

Pattern Drafting

2007-05-17T04:45:00.000-07:00

I am not a traditional Pattern Maker. I have drafted patterns and I can draft patterns, but I've only taken one course through an adult education program.

I'm more likely to knock off a favorite garment or manipulate an existing pattern. Lucky for me a former employer/current friend has an Independant Pattern Company, Christine Jonson Patterns , and I can use the patterns to my hearts content. I am particulary fond of her patterns because they have comfortable armholes and tried and true fit from her days as a retail seller of clothing. They were mostly drafted for cotton-lycra fabrics, but I don't let that little detail bother me!

I use patternmaking books like "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong for guidence and inspiration. And I also like the Built by Wendy book "Sew U", by Wendy Mullen, in spite of the sewing imperatives (my pet peeves- see earlier posts) because it encourages experimentation and creativity.

My approach to drafting is also not traditional, I'm inclined to leave the ruler on the table and redraw a line by hand to get the fit I'm looking for. Rules be damned! As far as I'm concerned the style and fit of a garment is limited to the width of the paper (there's always tape!)or ones imagination and not some set of rules established- how long ago?

Production sewing has also been helpful because I've learned what the pieces are supposed to look like. Tracing out the patterns before you make them is also particularly helpful because it makes you look at the pieces several times before you make the garment.

Industrial Machines

2007-05-13T16:49:00.000-07:00

I have an industrial Pfaff straight stitch and a semi-industrial Bernina. I still use my home Pfaff for making button holes because it is easier than switching to the Bernina (different bobbin). I should use my Bernina more often, since it can also do a buttonhole, but I prefer the Pfaff for sewing silk and this is my only contract sewing at this time.

I bought the Bernina 950 several years ago because I was doing a false flat felled seam on wool, with a zig zag on the outside, for a designer in Michigan. This designer is no longer doing clothing for many reasons and I just haven't used the machine much recently. But- it was one of the best purchases I have ever made. The first time I used it, I was amazed at how fast I got my work done. I finished the work about 3 days early and just sat in my chair, a little dazed at the technology.

I love industrial machines, but I'm not sure everyone is ready for one. I waited too long, I probally could have used it earlier than I did. But I know people who have them and don't use them because they don't get the control they want. My repetitious sewing gave me the opportunity to gain a lot of control and I was ready to use the speed when it became available. I can't imagine sewing all the time now without them, some machines seem so slow they make me want to drool. Another bonus with industrial machines is the sturdy table, I find myself balancing with my elbows, and I could never get that much leverage with a home machine.

So how do you know when you are ready? I'd say if you can regularly sew with the pedal to the metal, even on curves, then you are ready. There are some places that will let you test drive, M.J. Foley here in Michigan has always offered when I talked to them on the phone. I've never tried it though, I made the decision to buy the Bernina 950 and they didn't carry it. And I purchased my Pfaff secondhand about 10 yrs ago, long before I was ready for it. It was just too good a deal to pass up for someone who had made up their mind to sew for a living!

First Sale on Etsy!

2007-05-10T06:27:00.000-07:00

I'm so excited! I made my first sale on Etsy! I have sold my totes in other venues before, but it feels great to make my first sale here. It also inspires me to try to get some other things going.

I've been working hard for Barb, she has been taking care of some wholesale orders and has a show coming up in a couple weeks. That should be busy!

New Blog<=

2007-05-10T06:16:00.000-07:00

This is my new and improved blog spot. Previous Blog entries can be found at http://journals.aol.com/dianesladeinc06/thoughts-from-a-seamstress-/ . While there is much that I like about my previous blog, I would like to have more control over the html on the page. I believe this new venue will allow me much more.