Day One: Thursday Sept 25th 2008, Babylock Passion For Fashion Sewing Challenge at the American Sewing Expo in Novi,MI

The contest is over (And the results are in!), but I'm going to go day by day and fill you in on what happened each day.

I was due at the expo on Thursday night at 5:45, unfortunately I was about ten minutes late. I missed the trip the Finalists display.

Shown Below...









That's mine in the corner, with someone else's shirt on top. What an amazing array of talent represented here! I'm actually glad now that I didn't end up seeing this display until the end, the garments are very intimidating!!

First, we met our mentors (I'm sorry I didn't get a picture of them!) Kayla Kennington and Becky Fulgoni (scroll down). I've heard about Kayla before and she has been featured in magazines, Becky was totally new to me, but turned out to be a fabulous inspiration. Both are great seamstresses and I have no complaints only compliments about how well they mentored.

Next we all sat around and introduced ourselves. The youngest was 18 and the oldest was not me!! But I do think most of the contestants were in their 20's and I in my 30's was in the top four if not in the top two oldest contestants. Its hard to guess.

We had varied backgrounds, from design school to businesses, at least one other contestant sells on Etsy and four of the contestants were returning for a second try at winning the contest.

We were introduced to our sewing machines. A Babylock Espire



The sewing machine was really cool. An automatic needle threader (one of the easiest I've seen) and buttons for thread clipping, needle up, as well as many features I didn't have the chance to discover. The bobbin can wind while I'm sewing and the thread automatically positions itself correctly and doesn't reqiure holding (or doesn't pull itself unthreaded right when your hands are full!!)

and our serger a Babylock Evolve (waaay over to the left....)




The best thing about the serger was Christine! She was there for sewing machine support and did all the thread changes for us at the show. In fact we didn't even get a intro on these, because she was available to quickly take care of it. How is that for easy serger thread change!!

Next it was time to meet the models. They were all lovely, and I found myself analyzing each of them as they walked down the runway. We ended up choosing our models by drawing numbers out of a hat. This was the fairest way. I ended up with a model named Breanna. We all walked over to the sewing area, measured the models and were done for the evening!



I had a really hard time sleeping with all the nervous excitement, but the next day did arrive!!

Recycled Denim Jacket

I made a denim jacket from three pair of blue jeans and one skirt using Butterick Pattern B0458, by Connie Crawford. I first mentioned the pattern here. As usual my pictures of the garment are not so great, but I'll keep trying!


And this close up turned out a little better.


I also took many picture of how I laid out the pattern pieces on the denim if you are interested you can see them on Flickr

Here is a view of the pieces ready to go together.


I chose the pieces by color, the facing pieces were a slightly lighter weight and that was a real bonus. All the denim was fairly lightweight, I wouldn't recommend diong this jacket with Levi's. The sleeves are cut with the out seam still sewn and there are darker pockets showing on the back of the side back pieces (I removed the pocket to make it fit). All the side pieces are from the skirt, the center front and back pieces are from one pair, and all the facings are from the last pair. Also my collar and cuffs are on the opposite grain.

I mostly followed the directions, I talk more about the construction here on Pattern Review.

A bonus to working with old jeans is the cost, if I make a mistake its not a big deal. And there are plenty out there. Choose Larger sizes if you are going to try something similar.

A drawback to recycling is that a lot of the denim is stretched in spots and may take more fussing, particularly the sleeves. And a caution, I have a couple of wear spots on my finished jacket, I should have looked things over a little better.

I LOVE my new jacket, I think it turned out awesome. I do have to decide what to use for buttons, but I have time. I'll definately be trying some more patterns. I need to do some drafting too. This is something that would be great for selling.

My Itinerary and Supplies

I received my itinerary and list of supplies this week for the Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Challenge. So I'm really going to be in it! I'm very excited and can't believe I really have to wait until the end of September.

I made my hotel reservations today, Thursday till Sunday morning. Thursday night we have to be at the Rock Financial Showplace for our contest orientation, meeting our mentor Kayla Kennington and her assistant, Becky Fulgoni (last years second place winner), sewing space assignment, Baby Lock sewing machine orientation and meet and measure our model.

Friday is the first show day, we recieve our secret challenge in the morning and then have cash to shop for our supplies on the American Sewing Expo floor. We get a lunch at 12:30 and 7pm we have to stop sewing and leave the building.

Saturday is time to work on the garment again, then at 3pm we get to final fit our models. 6pm is the Fashion Show and judging.

Sunday is our free day to enjoy the Expo and maybe some classes.

Supplies....
muslin, threads, zippers, assortment of interfacings,basic sewing supplies, sewing chair, drafting tools (including one book), and asssortment of embroidery stabilizers.

I've got lots of sewing supplies so I can find most in my stash, I hope I don't bring anything illegal as basic sewing supplies, I'm really gonna have to think about that one to make sure I don't forget anything. My chair is embarrasing! The wheels are all clogged and flat and don't roll and it has a smashed up pillow seat. The embroidery stabilizers? Frankly that part scares me, I'm not really an embroidery person.

I'm dying to know what the secret challenge will be! I'm also interested to see who the other contestants will be. I'm sure to be surrounded by a lot of talent. No matter what this will definately be a fun experience.

I'm a Contestant in The Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge!

I'm so excited! I'm going to be a contestant at the 2nd annual Baby Lock Passion for Fashion Sewing Challenge at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, MI.

I entered my skirt, that started out here, because the rules called for something I had made in the last 2 yrs and I hadn't taken the time to make something new.

They are also going to keep my skirt for a display they are having. I'm guessing its the Reconstruction Zone where they will be doing a DIY on Jeans.

It is a 3 day event with an all day sewing session on Friday September 26th and the Fashion Show on Saturday at 5pm. I'm not worried about getting things finished on time, I'm just thinking about the creative side, part of the contest is to "make it your own". I'll be flipping thru my patternmaking books until then that's for sure!

I can't find any information about what the prizes are, but its sure to be a great experience!

Wish me luck!

Pattern Drafting

I've learned most of my Pattern Drafting from books. I did take a Fashion Design course that included Pattern Drafting in 1997 from Oakland County Adult Education and found it useful. In fact, that is how I was introduced to the book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I'm sure there are other similar programs available.

I looked into a Fashion Design School, in Troy, MI, that advertises on the TV, but after going thru the process and not getting the answers I needed I decided not to go that route. I wasn't interested in a year of remedial math and english and I was hoping to place out of those courses based on my College education. I was told I could, but was given the run-around when it came to actually getting any information about a revised schedule. The tuition for the school would have equaled about 23,000, so it wasn't something I wanted to fool around about. I wanted definitive answers before I got completely involved and it wasn't given satisfactorily. A word of caution, read everything!!!! I was presented with a contract that I was told was non-binding, I read the entire thing, and I made them cross off, initial and make a copy for me, because there was a section that said I was responsible for the tuition EVEN IF I DECIDED NOT TO ATTEND. It could have been a problem, but because I read everything, and made the appropriate changes it wasn't.

After this experience, and an unwillingness to relocate, I decided, after the 23,000, a couple hundred on Pattern drafting books was nothing!



I picked up several Pattern Drafting and Draping books, Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking by Dorothy Moore, Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong, The Art of Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford and a old 1950 Applied Pattern Designing by Herbert Mayer. My FAVORITE purchase by far is Patternmaking Made Easy by Connie Amaden-Crawford. I also picked up a couple related books The Complete Book of Fashion Illustration by Sharon Tate and Mona Edwards (even though I'll never be able to draw) and Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff because I felt I would find them useful.

I get enjoyment from flipping thru the books and visualizing dart movement, I have found it useful when doing DIY projects, it has opened up my eyes as to what is possible. Darts on the neckline if it is accidently made too large and other possiblities I hadn't thought of before. I will definately purchase more Patternmaking Books in the future to learn more.

Sewing is really my skill, Pattern Drafting is time consuming for me. But it is really just a matter of pratice. I've been successful when I've put my mind to it and it is absolutely necessary when making garments to sell to the public.

How to find work as a Seamstress

I find myself without any paid sewing work this week. This is not uncommon in July, but I usually just slow down, not stop completely. I have two people sending me work next week and I expect a large order from Florida in August, so it still moving, but it may be time to expand my clients again. This happens occasionally, people change their business or decide to stop doing what they are doing for whatever personal reasons. It is why it is important to have more than one contract, even if it is possible for one person to keep you busy full time (though not in my experience).

I have had referals from current customers, but mostly they want to keep me for themselves and don't give out my name. I have had a lot of referrals from people I no longer work for. Referals don't always work out. A lot of times it is just chit chat and the person who gets my name isn't really ready to start. Or they want to collaborate with me not hire me. Though I would consider a collaboration with the right person, I'm at a point in my life where I don't want to be a partner, I want to be a paid employee.

I started my search today on the internet. I put "seamstress michigan" into the search engine. I ended up filpping thru about 41 pages and getting a handful of places that I will send an email. I don't know how many will even respond, but its a start. You never know whose business has recently picked up or who has lost a seamstress.

I have also had luck in the past by going to an Art Fair or Show and inquiring in booths if they need any sewing help and/or dropping off a business card. The rejection rate is high, but if you are successful it can result in a long term relationship. The got the woman I work for in Virginia this way. She wasn't at the Show, but someone I talked to gave her my card. I've been working for her since 2001. She is one whose business is changing away from clothing and starting to focus more on accessories, because she has aquired several wholesale accounts over the last couple of years.

I also found a couple wesites that are worth checking regularly to see if they have a good fit for me:
Sewing Want Ads
Simply Hired
Fashion Jobs

You will have to try your own search in your area and see what comes up.

While working at a place insead of home isn't an option for me, it may be for you, especially if you are just starting out and need to inspire confidence. If I was in my 20's again, like I was when I was starting out, I'd even consider relocating, there are certainly a lot more opportunities in New York or California than in Michigan!

I went to a lot of interviews back then where they were not impressed with my youth or my experience (zip!). You may have to start out doing something that you don't like just to get the experience. I made a lot of swimsuits and little girls dance costumes, and I sure wasn't making much! I learned a lot though and it was all worthwhile.

I also have a website that needs updating, Production Seamstress, it does generate some interest.

Needles for the Bernina 950

I recently received an email asking about which needles I use for the Bernina 950. Since it may be information others need, I decided to post the original email and my response here. Any knowledge anyone has to contribute about their experience with needles for the Bernina is welcome here!

Hi Diane,

I read your blog on Flickr. Can you help me with a question on needles for the 950. I have a 950 and have purchased the standard 287 WH needles by Bernina, but I decided to try the Cool Sew needles by CTS (they are supposed to allow higher speed without fraying the thread). They are cross referencing the 287 WH with a DBX257, 16X257, DBx1, 16X231, DBX1738, 1738, SY2270. I ordered some based on the chart and these needles end up being shorter than the 287 WH by what appears to be 1 mm. Have you used needles other than the 287 WH? If so, what size?

Thank you for your help!

Sincerely,

Name Withheld




Dear Name,


My Bernina needles have 287 WH on them, if I remember correctly, they are quite pricey. I have some Schmetz that say DBX1, 16X231, 287 WH and 1738 (A). The Schmetz's look to be a smidge shorter. I also have some superior Beka (made in germany)that say 16X257, 16X231,1738 and DBX1. I use the Beka's most with no ill effects, they look to be a smidge longer that the Berninas(I never held them next to each other before!). BUT, the schmetz's are a 12 the Bernina's are a 14 and the Beka's are a 16. Are the needles you are comparing all the same size? I have no idea if this is standard, just an observation.

I believe I got my Beka's at MJ Foley's, they are in MI like me and I can go pick up there, its been a while since I had to buy more, I'm not using the machine as often right now. You can also buy Organ 16X231 BALL POINT needles online.I used to sew in 8 to 10 hour stretches with the beka's so I'm sure they are good and will not damage the machine. I didn't use the Schmetz's as often because I did primarily sewing on felted wool. I don't remember any problems.....

I can also sew at max speed with the Bernina, my experience with any other thread besides gutermannn was to have the thread fray. I insist that my customers buy gutermann now. I didn't even think to blame the needles for the ,what I call, coring out (the thread got really thin and ended up as a snag/snarl at the needle eye).

You seem very on the ball (I never held the needles next to each other!), but I just wanted to add the the needle goes in off center. If you are having trouble with the thread shredding, check the manual to be sure you have it correctly off centered!.

Hope that helps!
Diane