How I measure.

I sell in various venues at various times and I understand how difficult it can be to buy online when sizes are vague or not standard. I do my best to represent garments as accurately as possible.

My first suggestion is to get something out of your closet that has similar attributes. For example, a sweater with set in sleeves for a sweater with set in sleeves. You don't have to know exactly what set in sleeves are, just look for similarities. Don't measure something of yours that is sleeveless if you are looking at a sleeved garment.

You will need a tape measure.


Dritz Tape Measure- 5/8''x60''

First I lay the garment flat and neat on the table.


Measuring underarm to underarm.


Measuring length. Starts where the neck edge meets the collar.


Ends at the hem (this style has an open front, so the length is approximate))


Measure sleeve.


From where the top of the sleeve meets the shoulder,


to the hem.

Beginner sewing tips

I've recently had the opportunity to see some of the mistakes that beginners to operating sewing machines often make. So, I've got some suggestions to make your sewing machine work better. I don't want newbies to become frustrated before they can even start sewing.

First make sure the tension dial is in the factory setting. If you don't remember where that is, put in it in the middle of the range, usually about 4. Now forget how to move this dial.

Set the machine to a 2 1/2 - 3 in the stitch length. It is easier to pick out.

Use muslin or a quilting cotton for your sewing practice. That means a quilting needle or a universal or a sharp 11. I like Schmetz and have had good success with Organ. Other brands are good, I just haven't used them. Buy a couple packs with different sizes, plus ball points.

Make sure the bobbin is wound properly. Even, not crooked, and nice and tight, not squishy to the touch. Make sure there are no tails sticking out of the top.

Make sure the bobbin is placed into the bobbin case properly, or placed into the drop bobbin properly. See your manual or these pics for examples of bobbins. There is no one size fits all answer, it depends on your machine.

Pfaff 6091, thread goes off to the right.


Bernina 950, thread goes to the left.


If your only thread stand option is like this buy one of these or these.



See your manual for proper threading. If you don't have the manual, try to find your machine here. I will try to do some more threading tutorials soon. The rules are pretty much the same, machines just look different.

Place your foot all the way up on the foot pedal, not just your toes. Use even pressure, less for slower or more to go faster.

Situate the fabric under the presser foot, needle down, then presser foot down. ONLY TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU! NEVER (NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER!) TURN THE HANDWHEEL AWAY FROM YOU! Even if it means the wheel has to go all the way around.

Let the machine do what it is designed to do. Don't "steer" the fabric, guide it. Its OK to be a little off starting out, keep your corrections gradual and it won't be as noticeable.

If you want to slow down, use less pressure with your foot, don't hold back the fabric. I can't stand the sound of working against the feed dogs.

Backstitching should be limited to about 3 stitches.

Change your needle often, this is not a place where you should be skimping and saving money. If the stitch isn't right and you are positive the threading and bobbin are correct, try a different needle, you can use this chart. Make sure the needle matches your fabric and you are using a compatible thread.

A seamstress is not a patternmaker.

A seamstress is not a patternmaker. If you are looking for someone to make patterns, do not ask a seamstress. A patternmaker can sew, but if I call myself a seamstress, I am not implying that I can make patterns. If a patternmaker says he/she can't sew then find yourself another patternmaker.

I was asked many years ago to sew samples for a self-described patternmaker who lamented that she could only draft patterns but could not sew to save her life. After contracting to sew 10 designs, already cut out, for $50.00 apiece I discovered the problem. Nothing fit together. She couldn't sew because she couldn't draft. I was inexperienced at the time and brought the garments to a experienced patternmaker. She confirmed my discovery. I gave it all back and didn't charge her anything because she had spent $5000.00 for a booth at a show.

If you don't know this basic truth, its time to stop. You aren't ready for production. Go here, buy her book.

Great things are happening!

Things have been busy around here! Along with an expanding family and some ongoing piece work, I've been offered a sewing educator position at the Richmond Aud. The Aud building is located in Richmond, MI and is run by the Regional Youth Complex, Inc.

I am thrilled with the opportunity to introduce and refine sewing skills in young people. There are MANY creative opportunities at the Aud building and the classroom setup is very open. Kids can drop in as long as I'm there and sew something of mine or make one of their own ideas. It is my job to help them be successful and keep the creative juices flowing. My duties will also include some costumes and alterations for the theatre program.

I started about 6 months ago after volunteering to sew costumes for a play. I had the opportunity to help with the selection of sewing machines (in spite of a limited budget we were able to purchase 4 excellent Janome Sewing Machines) and will be an important part of designing the program. This August after a brief closure of the building for new bathrooms, we will start up the program again. I enjoyed meeting and teaching the kids who came in to see me and I look forward to the new season with some new faces, ideas and enthusiasm.

Registration begins for the American Sewing Expo

On September 24 - 26, 2010, the Rock Financial Showcase of Novi, Michigan hosts the largest independent sewing show in the United States. Featuring 90+ vendors, including Michigan locals Habermann Fabrics from Royal Oak and Fabric Gallery from Williamston. There are many classes, make and takes, seminars, free demonstrations, fashion shows, and the Passion for Fashion live competition. Its a great place to get a feel for fabrics, learn new tricks, and rub shoulders with other sewing enthusiasts.

Register by Internet, fax or mail. Information and tips for registering are available on their website. Special package pricing for seminars and general admission that can save from $6.00 to $60.00, depending on how much you feel you can take in on one weekend. Their website boasts that the show is too much to do in one day.

All day Workshops kick off the weekend on Wednesday and Thursday. Choices include making a jacket, a quilt or a blouse. Learning how to drape, make buttons or make and use silk screens. It will not be difficult to find a class you'd like to try, but to only select one! There are 1 hour Lectures as well as 2 to 4 hour Hands on classes held throughout the weekend. Instructors are designers, artists and teachers who are excited by their craft and thrilled to share their knowledge with interested students. Topics include things like fancy jeweled zippers, Tye-dyeing fabrics, Leather 101 and much, much more. Learn about an innovative product, a better technique or a new skill.

The show has always held appeal for the seasoned quilters and garment sewers, but in the last couple of years it has made extra effort to encourage and entertain the next generation of crafters. With the Reconstruction Zone and the Threadbanger Duo, plus the Sew Experience Café and live Fashion Shows there is never a dull moment and plenty to watch if you need a break from shopping or learning in the seminars. Whether your hobby is fashion sewing, quilting, needle arts, home dec, crafting or you are looking to find something that inspires you, the Expo is a great place to spend the weekend!

(image is the 2010 brochure from the sewing expo website)

Sorry, no Passion for Fashion for me this year

Boo Hoo! I just got my entry for the Passion for Fashion Competition back in the mail today. Along with a very nice rejection letter. So this year I will not be participating. But at least my Dear Husband can wear his shirt now! I made him throw it on for the picture right out of the package.



I wrote about my great experience with the contest in 2008. See the entries here.

I guess now I need to study the brochure and decide what days I will be attending the expo show!

Watching Project Runway

I'm watching my dvd's for the second time. I have Season 1 thru 5.



I ask for them for Christmas, because at my inlaws we trade names and its hard to shop for each other. And they aren't too expensive $17.49 to $27.95 each. (A month of cable is more!) I think I like them better this time because I'm not guessing about who is going to win. Its more fun to look at what they are doing. I'm inspired by their efforts and humbled by their imagination and abilities under pressure.

The show has a lot of drama, too. Anyone has a breakdown and a fight or a big mouth and that will definately get broadcast. The designers are big characters, I think its a combination of picking good characters and having a lot of interesting people to choose from. Season 2 has Santino Rice and Season 4 has Christian Siriano. Two larger than life people. I wouldn't recommend it for children, there is bad language, drinking, etc., but it is great adult entertainment. Santino (@santinorice) broadcasts on Twitter and I nearly dropped my laptop when he followed me back!

My husband says we may be getting cable, so I might be able to watch season 8 live. I'm not sure if I really like that idea, I will have to wait to see the successive episodes, not just slip in the next dvd!

I'm asking for season 6 and 7 this year! Maybe one of my brothers will buy one for me too :)

week #4



That's green beans in the bag and the squash was really (really!) good, I'm excited about next weeks share, we did get a little rain last week!